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Riding a Horse with a ‘Chip In’ Habit at Take Off to a Jump

You are cantering towards the jump… 3… 2… 1… But instead of the ‘Jump’ that should have followed the 1; you get a chip in. A moment where your usually trusty horse decides to test both of you by inserting a little ‘half stride’ in there before takeoff!

The result is you do a great Thelwell impression and your horse does his best helicopter move; straight up and straight down… Not a good feeling for anyone!

Riding a horse that regularly includes a chip in or three is not enjoyable for anyone; the rider, the person watching, or the horse. Of course, it can happen to anyone, we call have days where we get the stride to the fence wrong. However, for some horses, it becomes a habit that can seem almost impossible to break. That extra little half stride…

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What A Chip In Looks & Feels Like

This habit is uncomfortable and does little for building confidence to clear a course of fences safely. However, before we look at how to begin working with a horse who adds a little stride here and there, let’s back up. It is important to first realize what this is and why it might be happening.

When a horse chips in before a fence, he has literally fitted an extra stride into a space. A space that there was really not enough room for that stride…

He decided that, rather than taking off where he initially met the base of the fence, he would get creative. He would add a quick little half stride in there and then take off. It often results in a ‘cat jump’ which is all four legs really taking off and touching down at the same time, due to the loss of impulsion or energy. It can also result in a ‘helicopter jump’, which is a jumping effort, but with an extremely steep up followed by an extremely steep down, with just the width of the fence in the middle!

In both these situations, the horse is not using his back or body to the best of his abilities and it feels really uncomfortable for the rider. Because of the loss of ‘flow’ in the stride, the rider very often ends up either too far ahead of the movement or left behind. Both scenarios will usually result in both horse and rider not being correctly prepared for the next, upcoming jump.

Why Your Horse Might Chip In

There are lots of reasons your horse may chip in before a jump or fence. It is also worth remembering that most horses will do this at some point in their training. However, we are dealing today with a ‘chip in addict’, or a horse that does it more times than not. In order to identify why we must first look at the horse’s approach to the fence…

Is it rushed? Maybe he leaning or pulling on the reins and being heavy on the forehand? Or is he moving forward? Perhaps are you literally scrubbing and kicking every stride just to get to the base of the fence?

With regards to the rushing or leaning, this may be due to a lack of training. This will often result in a lack of confidence in your horse. He may be off the mindset that he must ‘just get it done’ as quickly as physically possible. Unfortunately when this happens, the rider’s reaction and how they deal with it plays a big part in not only the result for that particular fence but also the long-term as well.

Retracing some basic steps in his training is very often the way to begin overcoming this challenge

If your horse is on the other side of this coin, he is not taking you to the fence at all, this can also be a training issue. However, again, it may also show signs of a lack of confidence in his abilities. I strongly suggest that, whatever the cause, take things back to basics. It truly is the key to building and developing correctly. And to show your horse that he can indeed successfully make it from A to B over a fence.

Could It Be You?

Sometimes, a horse that chips in is doing so because of how he is being ridden by the rider… A nervous rider often tends to throw themselves into their jumping position a little early. This will encourage the horse to ‘chip in’ before the fence. Unfortunately, this is often a difficult and vicious cycle to break.

The rider is nervous because the horse is rushing, the horse begins to chip and rush even more because the rider collapses before the fence and ‘drops him’, both emotionally and physically. This causes the horse to rush even more. And so it goes on and on…

If you feel that this is the issue, I would strongly suggest working over a single pole and practicing your timing and your balance. The light seat is wonderful and will help you do this.

Begin By Improving Flatwork

So, once we have discovered why your horse chips in before a fence, we can then look at how to begin working through it so we can get a good take-off point and reach each fence in the best possible way.

A good place to start working with your horse on the flat and improving his general responsiveness and understanding of your aids in the saddle. Does he listen when you half halt? Or do you find yourself pulling and hauling to get him to ‘steady’ a little?

Does he move forward when asked to do so from your leg? Or do you have to kick and click like a crazy person to get any sort of movement happening?! These are basic training issues and need to be addressed before we even think of turning our hoof to jumping. It sounds repetitive, but this is because it is true… You have to have the basics mastered before you can move on to more ‘exciting’ things in the saddle!

Your ability to balance things with a half halt while keeping your horse moving forwarding is vital to being able to approach any fence successfully. Keep in mind that a horse who chips in every now and then is a horse who is not so confident in jumping. He needs a rider who can allow him to build his confidence in a controlled, systematic and patient environment

Figure Things Out for Himself

So, once you have the basics working, I suggest beginning to allowing your horse to figure things out on his own, without a rider, in a controlled environment. This can either be lunging or loose schooling, but the word controlled is the important one in the previous sentence!

Loose schooling or lunging a horse over fences does not mean chasing them into a frenzy around the arena at dizzying speeds.

It is simply creating a situation that is conducive to an optimum jumping effort, either one or two fences. Then allowing your horse to approach and work things out himself.

The benefit of loose schooling is that you can have two jumping efforts, 2 measured and correct stride lengths apart from each other. The first jump, a cross pole, is to set your horse up correctly for the second fence, which can also be a cross pole or an upright or parallel. Due to consistently meeting the second fence at the correct distance, your horse will begin to figure things out himself.

Distance & Spacing of Poles & Jumps

It is also important to remember that the ‘correct distance’ is what is correct for him, not trying to force him into a standard jumping distance. Rather allow him to first build his confidence in his own abilities using a distance that suits his current way of going or current stride.

Once he is able to begin ‘picking’ a correct take off point, without any anxiety, you can then slowly begin working over adjusted distances

Also, don’t see the loose schooling or lunging as a once-off occurrence. Rather, try to incorporate them into his training for as long as necessary. Very often with horses, it is a lack of balance that causes them to be unsure of the jump, leading to a chip in here and there. The rider will definitely affect this balance or lack of, so allow him time and space to work it out alone before then adding a rider into the equation.

Using Groundpoles while Riding

As well as the above, you can begin working over ground poles in the saddle with your horse. Laying out a single ground pole and cantering over it can be a helpful exercise for both horse and rider. With regards to the horse, we are looking for a balanced and rhythmic approach and also, a canter that is taking you to the fence, rather than you having to ask and push for every stride. Try to keep the rhythm as consistent as possible, and the hindquarters underneath the horse.

You can also use this to begin training yourself to see a better stride before the fence. Simply counting backwards from where you think there will be three strides before take off is a fantastic exercise to get you in rhythm with your horse and begin seeing the stride. Only when you can actually see the stride can you then look at adjusting the stride. Before that it is just the luck of the draw – never a good idea when there are jumps involved!

As you canter in on your ‘approach’ to the fence start 3… 2… 1… Jump. If you get in wrong the first few times, don’t worry. Just keep trying to gauge that point where you are three strides away. Later you can make things a little more difficult for yourself with 5… 4… 3… 2… 1… Jump. You will find that the more you ‘tune’ your eye into the approach, the further out you will be able to see if the take-off point is a good one or is a little too far away or close. This will give you time to adjust the strides in between which will, in turn, allow you to arrive at the jump in a better position to clear it comfortably.

Related Distances

From here you can add more poles on the ground at ‘related distances’ to each other. Work at maintaining the forwardness of the canter while keeping the rhythm and balance all the way through. Also, work on your timing of the jumping position. As I mentioned earlier, it is tempting to get into it a little early if your horse is rushing, but this will only make the problem worse.

Try to use your 3… 2… 1… to steady yourself and only allowing your body to follow your horse at the ‘Jump’ part

Once both you and your horse are more comfortable and have stopped any added strides or half strides before the pole, you can begin to build some small fences where the poles are. Remember that if your horse chips in, a lot of the time it is a confidence issue, so don’t be tempted to push him further than he is comfortable. Just because he is ‘able’ does not mean he is comfortable doing it!

Your horse’s ability to see a stride takes time to establish, just like yours. Give him that time and it will pay dividends later when you are out on the track. Count yourself down to the base of each fence, 3… 2… 1… at all times initially (in your head when in the company of others if you want!), but use it as a way to balance both of you on the approach to the fence.

Happy Riding
Lorna

Connection for Equestrians

If you are interested in finding out more about how you can begin re-schooling your horse in all aspects of riding, Connection might just be what you are looking for. Each week you will receive 5 audio ‘lessons’, where I give you step by step instructions. You can listen using a free app on your phone, on your computer, or via your favorite podcast app.

This makes it really handy to use and listen to while riding your horse; in the saddle.

We cover loose schooling, working over single poles, related distances, and also working on improving your eye to see a stride. There are also diagrams with the actual distances for you to replicate in your arena.

Find out more over at https://stridesforsuccess.com/join

May 17, 2016
Engaging Your Horse’s Hind Quarters

Have you ever looked at photos or videos of your horse and it looks like his hind quarters are, literally, being left behind? They are dragging out behind him, rather than working underneath him. Or perhaps you have gotten the feeling that when you ask for ‘more’ when in the saddle, there is just no way he can provide ‘more’ without speeding up and becoming long…

Knowing how to activate and then engaging your horse’s hind quarters is vital to his long-term training and development. However for many riders, it can be a little daunting trying to figure out if he is truly in ‘rear wheel drive’ rather than ‘front wheel drive’ while they are working or schooling their horse.

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However taking the time to begin asking your horse to work correctly from back to front will be a key factor in his overall development and training and also, the deciding factor between him becoming stronger when being ridden, or just remaining where he is, effectively capping his progress.

So, first and foremost when we talk about engaging the hind quarters, we are speaking about activating them or getting them to work while we are riding our horse and then connecting the energy produced to the front of his body. Engaged in this sense means to bind or interlock, so engaging the hind quarters is literally interlocking it with the rest of his body. Like I mentioned earlier, your horse being in rear wheel drive, means that his all the time pushing from behind, using his hind quarters. This is far more favourable when being ridden than pulling from the front with his front legs and shoulders.

Before we go any further it is also worth mentioning that your horse will need time to develop the necessary strength to truly activate and then engage his hindquarters when being ridden. It is up to you, the rider, to make sure you do not push him beyond what he is capable of for his level of training or schooling. Slow and steady wins the race when working with horses…

Pushing from behind requires your horse to be moving forward in the first place. Many riders seem to think that their horse merely moving is going forward, but in truth, going forward can more be described as your horse moving forward with a sense of purpose. They must have a little ‘pep in their step’ so to speak, rather than ambling along, hooves shuffling and dragging on the ground, each step looking like a momentous task

Responsiveness is part of the key to having your horse moving forward. A simple ‘You ask; he responds’ system in place which both you and your horse understand that there is a mutual responsibility from all parties if it is to work effectively. You are responsible for making sure that you are clear in what you ask. Your aids and also where you plan on going from that point are well thought out and executed. Your horse must then become responsible for adhering to your aids and directions in a willing and cooperative way.

If either side of the team, horse and rider, reneges on their individual responsibilities the result is a lack of forward movement, which will result in an inability to engage the hind quarters

Once your horse is moving forward, it is then up to you to allow that energy being created from behind to connect with the front of the horse, thus actually ‘engaging’ the hind quarters. There are a few different aspects to allowing this to happen, but again, if any are missing it will result in the hind quarters being ‘disengaged’ and left to their own devices, separate to the rest of the horse’s body working with the forward movement.

Think of energy as being a little like water or electricity. It will generally always try to find the shortest and easiest route. If you allow your horse to become crooked through his body, the energy will not flow where you want it and rather ‘shoot out the side door’. An example of this is on a circle, the hind quarters being allowed to swing out wide of the tracks the front feet have created. When this happens the energy, rather than pushing forward from behind and connecting to the front of the horse, will be lost out the side door of the horse, resulting in the horse going into ‘front wheel drive’ again.

When riding you should think of your aids, particularly seat, legs and arms, as being the banks of a river or canal. They will channel the water / energy that is being created in the hind quarters where you want it to go. This will continue to keep the energy moving forward and connecting, from back to front

This is why straightness is so important when training a horse and rider. Many times we focus on how straight the horse is, but ignore the obvious twisting or tilting of the rider’s body. Any crookedness in either horse or rider will again result in a disengagement of the hind quarters, which will see the energy dissipate and eventually be lost.

Another important factor to consider when thinking about this engaging of the back to the front of your horse’s body is the idea of ‘allowing’ that energy to flow underneath you through your horse’s back. Some riders really work hard at activating the hind quarters and getting them to work, but then due to a heaviness or tightness in their body, block this energy from connecting through or engaging with the front of the horse

When we learn to ride initially, we are often told to ‘sit up’, however we are rarely told why; other than the whole falling off aspect of collapsing through your body. But let’s assume you have indeed mastered staying on, however you are still finding it difficult to truly connect the hind quarters to the front end of the horse (through your contact), it may just be because you are blocking this.

Just as water can be dammed up, blocked or diverted, so too can energy. Sitting heavy in the saddle is the most common culprit here, but so too are shutting things down with your thighs. They can have a vice like effect on your horse if there is excess tension in your body. Also, leaning forward over your horse’s shoulders or withers will be highly effective in shutting down any engagement of the hind quarters.

Make sure that when you are riding, you are all the time encouraging your horse to use his back by being ‘light’ in the saddle. This is often as simple as sitting up through your rib cage, carrying your upper torso. This simple change is often enough to allow your pelvis to begin moving with the horse, which will in turn allow your horse to use his back.

Once you have managed to get your horse moving forward from his hind quarters or from behind and then are allowing that energy to flow underneath or through you in the saddle, the final piece of the puzzle is ready to happen…

To truly engage means to connect, bind or interlock. In the case of the hind quarters, we want to connect them to the rest of the horse like a gear cog. This allows you to truly direct the energy being created there. We do this through our contact with the horse

The unfortunate part of this is that most people look at the contact part as Step 1, rather than the final piece of the puzzle, or in this case for simplicity sake, Step 3. Contact is just like the responsiveness, there is a responsibility on both horse and rider to fulfil their end of the contract in order for it to work correctly and be effective.

If either horse or rider try to force it, it will be lost. Similarly, if either side try to evade it, it will be lost. Many times we blame the horse for evading the contact, but I see many riders who also ‘evade’ through reins that are too loose, or fingers that are wide open and look better suited to playing a piano rather than holding their reins.

Only when all three steps are in place can your horse truly engage his hind quarters and can you then begin to feel the difference between rear wheel drive and front wheel drive. The difference? Night and day! It feels like there is always energy there to perform what is asked. It feels like your horse moving forward with purpose. It looks so much more pleasing to the eye, as both horse and rider are in true agreement with each other, both maintaining responsibility for their individual part in keeping things together.

There are many exercises you can do to begin asking your horse to use his hind quarters but none will really be successful until you truly understand what it means to engage and connect the back to the front.

Happy Riding
Lorna

This is the first of 5 audio programs on this topic. In the rest of the programs you can listen to while riding for step by step instructions on how to effectively begin engaging your horse’s hind quarters. The exercises are suitable for all levels of riders and can be worked into your usual schooling routine with your horse.

For more information on how to download the rest of the lessons and gain access to over 600 audio horse riding programs on a whole range of different topics, visit https://stridesforsuccess.com/join/

May 9, 2016
Teaching Your Horse to Rein Back
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Have you ever found yourself out on the trail needing to reverse? Or even in the arena, knowing that your horse reversing in a calm, quiet fashion would be a really useful achievement in that particular moment?

You ask him to go back. However, rather than the smooth, no-fuss reverse you were imagining, it rather feels like you left the handbrake on and he begrudgingly edges ‘back’. Head raised in protest. Hooves seemingly glued to the ground beneath them.

By the end of the exercise, your horse, rather than having gone straight backward as requested, is far closer to a 90° angle from where you began…

Rein back is a really useful movement for your horse to know. It’s also one that can really begin at any time in his education. From being first handled in the stable, to later in the dressage arena. It is a nifty little tool to have when there are gates to be opened along the trail.

However, having that smooth movement, which you can truly direct your horse where you require him to go, like a lot of things, takes practice.

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What Is Correct Rein Back?

This practice begins with becoming really clear on what happens when your horse performs a rein back that is correct and balanced. We know that he must reverse, or go backward, however how he gets there is vitally important to the overall success of the movement.

When a horse moves in rein back, his legs move in diagonal pairs. His right front leg and his left back leg move backwards together. This is one step. Then his left front leg and right back leg move backwards together, step two. As he moves back, he should remain straight and his hind quarters will begin to move a little more underneath him with each passing step.

His back should remain relaxed, as will his head and neck. When he has moved back as far as you desire, he should then promptly move forward again when you ask him to. Without hesitation

What Should The Rider Do During Rein Back?

While your horse is moving back you, the rider, should remain upright. You will use your core to lighten your seat bones a little. Your lower legs will move back slightly.

Your legs are really important due to how they ask your horse to move. Timing is everything. You will use your leg to ask the horse to lift his leg. They ask the question. The rider can use their legs either together or one by one, depending on the situation. Forward movement is then ‘resisted’ by the riders hands. then resisting any forward movement with the hands.

This all sounds easy enough, however, unless the groundwork has been correctly laid, just following the above directions will not achieve a seamless, relaxed rein back.

In fact, many bad or faulty rein back performed by riders are the direct result of a lack of groundwork and patience when it comes to explaining to the horse what they expect from them.

Explaining Rein Back to Your Horse

As I mentioned at the beginning, horses can be introduced to rein back early in their lives. This is generally in the stable or stall when asking them to move backwards is something that will occur often daily. Rather than just pushing or shoving horses around the stables, think about using this basic movement as a start for when they are later under saddle.

From this, and regardless of your horse’s age, I suggest first taking him out to the arena. Have him fully tacked up if necessary. You are going to begin to explain rein back to him with you on the ground.

Ask him to halt correctly, which is square. Once he is standing still, not fidgeting, place your hand on his chest (where it joins his neck) and using a little pressure, push him back while asking him verbally to do so as well. Use a single word all the time, I suggest ‘Back’.

This is so that later, when you are in the saddle, you can use the same word to convey rein back intially to your horse.

When you begin, just ask for one or two steps. Don’t worry too much if they are crooked or if they are a little hesitant to begin with. What is important is that you reward any step in the ‘right’ direction and then ask him to move forward immediately after going backwards.

Thinking Forwards, While Going Backwards…

The going forwards as soon as the rein back is finished, is vitally important. Allowing him to stop and wait after he has performed a few steps of rein back will begin to set him in a ‘sticky’ mindset. Horses must always think ‘forward’, so make sure you keep instilling this throughout his groundwork exercises and his ridden exercises.

Try Not to Pull or Haul Your Horse Backwards

You may notice that I did not mention ‘pulling’ or ‘resisting’ with the reins or the lead rope when I spoke about asking for the rein back. Rather only using your voice aids and the pressure from your hand on his chest.

This is really important to note; the rein should never be used to ‘pull’ the horse backwards.

The horse must first understand the concept of moving back and then later, when you are in the saddle, the rein is merely to tell the horse “Okay, not forward here, rather backwards with that leg you have lifted in the air.”

When a rider uses the rein to actually move the horse backwards, it generally results in the horse lifting his head and neck, which causes the horses back to stiffen and tense up.

This, in turn, causes the actual steps of the rein back to become choppy and short and, if persisted with, fall out of sequence. So rather than the legs moving in diagonal pairs, the horse will move each leg individually. When this happens, it is not a true rein back.

Finding a Helper When You’re in the Saddle

Take the time to truly make sure your horse understands what is being asked of him on the ground. This will help when he then has to work things out under the saddle. Where he has the added distraction of a rider’s weight on board! Once you are in the saddle, I suggest finding a sympathetic helper on the ground who will take your space in front of the horse to apply those same groundwork pressure at the front of the horse.

From the saddle, you will set up the square halt, and then, lightening your seat bones a little in the saddle and sliding your lower legs back slightly, ask your horse to lift his leg.

At this moment, your helper will apply pressure while you say the ‘Back’ and resist any steps forward with the rein. As before, look for one or two steps initially. Then move your horse forward into immediately when you are finished with the rein back.

Be sure that you remain upright in the saddle. Many riders will lean forward a little to try lighten their seat bones. This can be quite off-putting for the horse and unbalance them further. Also, make sure you are not pulling on the reins. They are only there to ‘direct’ your horse as to which way he must move his legs. Think of them as a detour sign, rather than as a gear stick!

Rein Back in Your Day to Day Schooling

Finally, once your horse clearly understands what is required of him in the rein back, you can begin working this into your everyday schooling sessions. As he becomes stronger and more balanced, he will be able to perform a straighter and longer rein back. 4 to 6 steps are generally ample.

Just make sure that you ask him to move forward each time immediately into either walk, trot or canter. He must continue to think ‘forward’ rather than ‘backwards’.

Rein back will help to not only supple your horse. It will also begin strengthening this hind quarters for later work that will require more collection. And, it’s a pretty handy movement to have when out on the trails with your horse!

Happy Riding
Lorna

Other Resources to Help with This Topic
May 3, 2016
Building Confidence in Your Riding Abilities

Have you ever had the misfortune of a plan going awry when in the saddle? Perhaps something small such as a refusal or run out, or maybe something a little ‘bigger’ such as a fall or stumble? Either way, since it happened, you find that whenever you are in a similar situation or are reminded of it… Things are just, well, different.

Losing your confidence when riding is one of those things that no matter how small or insignificant the initial incident, has all the potential to grow into something that literally robs your enjoyment when riding your horse. If this is not bad enough, what frustrates so many riders is that while losing it can be so simple – regaining it is a process that takes time, effort and patients from all parties involved.

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However, regaining your confidence can be done and I believe approaching it with a plan of action which is tailor-made to each rider is the way forward. Very often riders tend to become frustrated with how long it is taking to build their confidence again. However, confidence is a little like plastic; if you force it, very often the result will be breaking it permanently.

I think it is really important to recognise that a loss of confidence is very often focused on not believing you are able to do something. With anything we believe or want to believe, we will look for proof of this being true. Maybe your horse acting a particular way, or a similar thing happening every time you try a specific movement.

However, rather than becoming stuck in the ‘Yes, when I try this, the result is that’ mentality, rather begin looking for the reason it is happening. Only when you discover the reason, can you then begin to dismantle the fear. Breaking the fear or the lack of confidence down into smaller parts is necessary to begin building it back up again.

Think of it like a puzzle that has been put together incorrectly. There are probably some parts that are correct, however there is also many parts that are incorrect, leaving the puzzle unfinished and wrong! Like remaking the puzzle, breaking all the pieces up – separating them in your head – so you can then see each piece clearly on its own, is the easiest and most effective way of then putting them together correctly to achieve the correct result.

Separating your fears up into smaller parts is, in my opinion, important for two reasons. Firstly; understanding something well and knowing the whys and hows of something helps to dispel a lot of the fear associated with it. Secondly; very often the thing causing the ‘lack of confidence’ is a symptom of something else.

The longer you continue to try treat the symptom, rather than remedy the cause, the more your confidence will continue to erode. Not unmasking the underlying cause is like trying to patch a dam with a band-aid

So taking all this into account I suggest starting off, regardless of your particular situation, in a smaller space than you would normally ride in. Here on the farm, we will start nervous beginners in the round pen which we use to lunge the horses. I then allow the riders as much time as they need to feel confident and ‘in control’ in that smaller space, before we move into a larger area.

Very often an empty arena can look massive to a rider who is feeling a lack of confidence in their abilities. Because of this, we will then divide the normal arena with poles and uprights, so there is 1 third on one side of the poles and 2 thirds on the other side of the poles. The riders will then move from the lunging arena into the smaller of the two sides of the main arena and remain there until, again, they feel a level of ease and confidence riding there. Finally, after sometimes months and after ‘graduating’ into the bigger side of the arena, they can ride around the whole arena.

The thing to remember is that most riders are capable from the beginning of riding in the ‘bigger’ arena, however it is their lack of confidence or belief in themselves that holds them back. Those beliefs need to be changed over time, by consistently proving to the rider that they can indeed handle themselves in the situations they find themselves in.

On top of riding in a smaller, more comfortable space, I strongly suggest taking everything back to basics. Very often a lack of confidence is a lack of knowledge about what to do in a particular situation. For example, the horse becomes faster through the corner. Or, the basic seat is wrong, causing the upper body to be in front of the vertical when riding.

Unmasking those fundamental flaws in the riders technique and then working on replacing them with correct techniques is key to a solid, secure seat. Going back to basics also confirms to both horse and rider the way to apply the aids correctly and respond to each other

Another suggestion I have is to build your actual physical strength in the saddle. The stronger and more supple you become, the easier you will find it is to firstly move with your horse in a way that feels ‘natural’, which will in turn help you feel more comfortable. But it will also allow you to react better to any situations that may crop up when you are in the saddle; such as your horse spooking, or your horse bucking, or even your horse just leaning and becoming heavy on your contact.

Once you can take things back to basics in a space that you are comfortable with, you will slowly begin building your confidence, ride by ride, day by day, week by week. Will it happen overnight? Most certainly not, however it is one of those things that, unbeknownst to yourself one day you will realise that you are feeling confident in the saddle where before you were nervous or anxious.

Happy Riding
Lorna

If you feel that having an instructor in your ear, talking you through simple movements that will help you increase not only your effectiveness in the saddle, but your confidence in those abilities, check out Daily Strides Premium. In there you will find 5 audio programs on this ‘confidence’ topic, in the Confidence Collection – a collection of other audio programs designed to help you begin feeling happier and more at ease in the saddle.

The Confidence Collection is just one of the many collections inside of Daily Strides Premium. In fact, there are over 600 audio horse riding programs in there for you to listen to while riding (or walking the dog!). Find out more by visiting https://stridesforsuccess.com/join/

April 19, 2016
Improving Your Dressage Scores

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You halt, salute, and exit the arena from your latest dressage test. Your best ‘free walk on a long rein’. Now, your thoughts turn to your scores; how well your dressage test went… That one circle may have looked a little more on the triangular side… But, on the plus side, you aced the canter leads each time and you’re almost sure the halt was a square one.

However, when the actual test scores are handed out, you realize things did not go that well – at all!

Riding a dressage test can be a nerve-wracking endeavor at the best of times. Firstly there is learning the test. Then having to ride the actual movement while thinking about preparing the next movement. It is not an overstatement to say that there is a lot going on both physically and mentally. All this while keeping a grin pinned to your face.

Am I the only person with vivid memories of that pony club instructor drumming it into you that judges like to see you enjoying yourself?!

Add this to the fact that your trust teammate, your horse, might have other ideas about how to impress the judges with his athletic abilities… Dressage can often seem very clinical. The comments and accompanying scores from the judges often repeat themselves over and over; regardless of the test or day, it was ridden on.

However, if the same movements are consistently producing the same comments, perhaps the judges might have a point?

So, taking that into account and working on the items that are showing up for you each test, here are some other simple tips you can begin implementing today that will help you to improve your overall scores and feel better after your next test.

1. Plan your warm up

Preparation is everything and this is also true for better results with your dressage test. Even if your next test is months away, begin now on finding the best warming up sequence for you and your horse. Focus on exercises that encourage relaxation as well as responsiveness. Also, exercises that help your horse to loosen up and become supple through his body.

Often the difference between a mediocre and a good test is the amount of time and preparation spent warming up. A few circles and transitions is not enough to really have you both ready to ride a great test when you enter the arena

Also, remember to keep in mind that different circumstances that are outside of your control may necessitate you having to have a few different warm up plans ready. Factors such as wind, the length of time traveling to the competition grounds, the horses you are sharing the practice arena with all can affect both you and your horse. Take the time to figure out what exercises work best to overcome those different challenges and help you both to relax and concentrate on the task at hand.

2. Practice the actual entrance

So like many things in life, first impressions count and with dressage, the first impression is how you enter the ring right up to when you track left or right at the top of the arena. Very often we practice over and over how straight we are on the centerline and also, how straight and square our halt is. These things are really important.

However, if the ‘turn’ itself into the arena is not a great quality bend, it will take the first few strides of your journey up the center line to sort out and fix.

This will leave you with less focus and preparation for your halt. I suggest laying out a mock ‘A’ with mock ends and corners the arena and practice firstly establishing a good, forward going gait before you ‘enter’. Also, work on the bend as you enter to make sure you are on the centerline from the word go.

Make sure that the quality of the gait you enter in is one which you intend to continue on with

Many riders tend to use the time before they hear the bell to show their horse any ‘spooky’ objects around the arena. I suggest if you can, work on desensitizing your horse at home, so you can use the minute or two before you enter A to really establish focus and forwardness in your horse. Of course, new situations will always have the potential for your horse to react in a different way. But working through different scenarios and ‘spooky objects’ at home will not only help desensitize your horse but also help you figure out the best way to regroup and refocus your horse if he should have a ‘moment’ in the arena.

3. Quality of Transitions

With all the stress and nerves surrounding remembering and riding your dressage test, it is easy to fall into the trap of thinking about your transitions as merely a way to get from A to B (with the A and the B being the important parts of the equation). However, transitions make up quite a large percentage of the scores in your test. They are key to riding a good A or B at all!

The first transition you will meet is usually the one into the halt on the center line. Take the time to practice this, not just the straightness and squareness of the halt, but also how your horse ‘steps down’ into the halt and then, how he propels or pushes himself out of the halt into whichever gait you choose.

Work on refining your aids, the more subtle the better. Also, pay attention to how responsive your horse is both preparing for, during, and riding out of any transition. This is a part of your test where a point here or there can make a big difference to the overall score at the bottom of the sheet.

4. Understanding what the judge is looking for

We all think of accuracy as being ‘hitting the markers’ and this is true, but I find that very often accuracy is also reading the test correctly beforehand so you understand what the judge is looking for with each separate movement.

Very often riders try to run before they can walk regarding what they expect from their horse in dressage

The temptation to look at higher level horses and riders and then try to emulate them in lower level tests is always present. However, it is important to keep in mind that depending on the level of the test, trying to ‘skip ahead’ without getting the basics correct is a recipe for disaster. A good example of this is lower level riders who are obsessed with their horse’s ‘head carriage’. Rather than working on encouraging relaxation, rhythm, balance, and a sense of forwardness, they pull their horses ‘on the bit’. Another hang up of riders is aiming for a lot of self-carriage by fixing their horses into a stiff frame. Instead, focus on straightness, consistent contact, and impulsion.

The dressage levels are created for a specific reason; to build strong foundations. Then, with each progressive level, another layer of sound training from which both horse and rider can grow from

Take the time when learning and then riding the test to figure out what the judge is looking for with your particular level. Put your focus on working towards delivering exactly that to the best of your abilities both in your warm-ups and when performing the actual dressage test in the arena.

5. Create mental ‘checkpoints’ to help you refocus

Imagine if there was a speaker in your ear, that every once in a while reminded you to carry yourself, or half halt, or whatever it is that you forget to do. This can make all the difference for you and your horse if you take the time to do it. See the ‘speaker’ as being the voice in your own head. I suggest using the corners as your ‘checkpoints’. Every time you ride through one, you will mentally remind yourself to check that you are indeed doing (or not doing as the case may be!) that one thing that makes all the difference. Make this a habit every time you ride. Begin with consciously saying it out loud as you ride into each corner and later, it will become second nature to you as you ride your schooling routines or a dressage test.

Using the corners as checkpoints will also ensure that you pay attention to riding every corner, which can be a game changer when riding a whole dressage test

The corners are the easiest place to rebalance and make any small adjustments necessary to keep your horse working with you for the duration of the test, and because they appear so often, this will ensure that both you and your horse are focused throughout the performance on the job at hand.

There are many ways to improve your dressage scores. Keep in mind that a few points here and there are what make all the difference to the overall scores. Also, try to improve marginally from one test to the next, perhaps 2 or 3 points on each outing. This way you will make your overall goal of reaching the next level an attainable one, but also a sustainable one.

Dressage is more like a marathon than a sprint. Pace both yourself and your horse, master the basics and from there, you will begin to see the results you want at the end of each score sheet.

Happy Riding
Lorna

Connection for Equestrians

This is the first in a series of 5 audio programs on this topic. The Daily Strides Podcast episode that appears above is a general overview, while the other four programs are step by step instructions you can follow from the saddle to help you improve your dressage scores.

To find out more about how you can get all this weeks programs inside of Connection, you can visit www.stridesforsuccess.com/join/

April 12, 2016
Riding a Bounce to Improve Overall Strength

Have you ever experienced popping over a jump with your horse, when he suddenly realises he needs a little ‘more’ if he is going to clear the jump? He stretches, or pushes, a little farther than you expected and suddenly you find yourself very much behind the movement and bracing for the inevitable ‘thud’ that your backside connecting with the saddle will create on landing!

Or perhaps your horse has a frustrating habit of hanging a hoof here and there over fences, which leads to poles on the floor and a less ribbons than you would like hanging on your wall!

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Developing both you and your horse’s physical strength is essential for successful, safe and injury free jumping. But doing so without ‘jumping the legs off’ your horse is often a challenge for many riders. This is where incorporating a simple bounce or two into your schooling, initially as ground poles and later as actual jumping obstacles, can help you both become stronger and more in control of your body over jumps and fences.

For many riders, the thoughts of riding a horse into a bounce is a daunting one. However, it need not be and in fact, will help you not only become stronger, but also give you a greater understanding of how your horse uses his body both before, during and after a fence, and how you must move to stay in sync with him throughout the effort

A bounce, simply put, is when a horse lands from one jump (or canter stride) and as he touches down, immediately takes off again over a second jump or ground pole. There are no ‘non jumping strides’ between the two obstacles; the front feet will touch down and then as the back feet near landing, the front feet will pick up again to jump the second jump.

Successfully navigating a bounce requires quite a bit of athleticism from your horse, as well as quick thinking. They are a super way of teaching horses to ‘snap up’ their front legs and also, to use their hind quarters over a fence and on landing to propel them forward again.

For the rider, the bounce requires balance and micro adjustments throughout the body in order to stay with the horse, poised over the saddle, rather than getting too far ahead of the movement, or being left behind.

It also helps riders to react quicker to what is happening underneath them as the horse is continually having to shift the weight between back and front throughout the sequence

Riding through a grid containing more than one bounce also requires the rider to understand impulsion and how the horse’s energy must be controlled. If the horse is ‘chased’ through the fences, he will not have time to make the necessary adjustments to successfully clear the obstacles. Similarly, if the riders fails to create enough impulsion or energy, the horse will be unable to make it through the line without having poles down along the way.

Before you begin introducing your horse to a bounce, it is important that he is confident jumping both individual fences and also related fences, such as doubles with one or two non jumping strides in between. The rider must also be able to stay with the horse over fences and have a secure and balanced jumping position when jumping related distances.

Start by placing a single pole on the ground and cantering over it. Feel how your horse moves over the pole, and also, how you remain balanced, while getting off his back, as he canters over the pole. Once you are both comfortable with this, you can then add a second pole between 3m and 3.7m or 10′ and 12′ away from the first. Canter your horse over the poles and make adjustments to the distance as necessary.

Work over the poles on both reins, approaching from different directions. Working over the bounce when still only ground poles is a great way to test your horse’s rhythm and balance.

See if you can maintain a consistent rhythm before, during and after the poles

This is also a great opportunity to see how well you can follow your horse before increasing the difficulty. I suggest keeping the weight dropped into your heels, your back straight, your shoulders open across your chest and your seat moving with your horse and ‘hovering’ when actually moving over the poles, in a light seat. You can also use this exercise to assess your hands and shoulders. Are they ‘following’ your horse’s mouth, continuing to maintain a consistent contact with your horse at all times?

It is tempting to try avoid landing heavily on your horse’s back, or catching him in the mouth by ‘over preparing’ yourself for the jump. Over preparing will result in you getting into your jumping position too early, and will see you leaning on your horse’s neck and shoulders for support. Use your practice over the ground poles in order work on this, rather than when there are actual jumps involved, as it will make it much more difficult for your horse to lift his shoulders and perform a clean jumping effort.

Remember to wait for your horse to begin over the pole, and then follow his lead

Also notice how centered your horse is over the poles. Later, when you are both comfortable popping through the bounce, you can begin to build cross poles, which will help keep your horse centered through the line. But for now, notice if there is a tendency to drift one way or the other.

Keep in mind that your horse is always influenced by your position in the saddle, so make sure you are riding in a balanced way through the line yourself

It is common for riders to ‘duck’ one side or the other of the horse’s neck over fences… Not a good habit to cultivate, so if it is there, nip it in the bud now! Think about keeping your chin centered over your horse’s neck or mane as you move with your horse through the bounce.

Once you are both comfortable riding through a single bounce of ground poles, you can begin to add more poles to the line. Continue to assess the distance and adjust it to suit your horse’s comfort levels. Later, as you both become stronger, you can then begin asking more difficult questions of your horse by asking him to adjust to set distances, but to begin with, build his confidence levels by building the lines for him and his preferred lengths.

You then begin to build actual jumps where the poles are. Depending on the height of the jumps, you may have to adjust the distances again for your horse, and always move through the line from both directions to help keep your horse fresh.

Keep in mind that riding a bounce takes concentration and strength from your horse; therefore riding a line of bounces is quite taxing. Don’t over do it, rather work through it and then leave it for a while, to return later when your horse is fresher. Working your horse through this when he is tired, either physically or mentally, will only lead to mistakes and injuries.

Happy Riding
Lorna

If you are interested in finding out more about bounces and how they can help you and your horse, perhaps the four other audio horse riding programs about this topic can help you. You can get theses, and hundreds more lessons, in Daily Strides Premium. You can find out more by visiting https://stridesforsuccess.com/join/.

March 29, 2016