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  • How to Use Your Leg While Riding

    How to Use Your Leg While Riding

    .How to use your legs while riding

    Do you find yourself a tad confused as to what exactly to do with your legs while you ride?  Do you find that even if you know what to do, degree of pressure to use or how often to apply the aid is confusing you?

    You are hearing terms such as ‘Keep your leg on’, ‘use your leg’, ‘more leg’, ‘leg’, ‘soften your leg’, ‘support with your leg’, ‘back up your leg’… leg, leg, leg!!!  You find yourself thinking back to the days when you were just happy keeping one either side of your horse!

    [smart_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/SFA416-What-to-do-with-Your-Legs-While-Riding.mp3″ title=”What to Do With Your Legs While Riding” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” tweet_text=”Confused about leg aids in the saddle? This will clear things up…” hashtag=”equestrian #deadtotheleg #horseriding” twitter_username=”strides_success” ]

    Knowing how to apply your leg, when to apply your leg and with what pressure and regularity is something that takes lots of practice.  It falls under the ‘feel’ category of horsemanship and riding skills.  However, you can begin to improve your use of your leg right now with a few simple steps.

    Why Your Leg Aids are So Important in Riding

    You leg is one of the riding aids you use to communicate with your horse.  It is used to influence your horses forward and sideways movement.  It also has a regulating influence when necessary. Couple this with being essential for bending your horse, as well as helping to contain your horse.

    Your leg will always be present on your horses sides while you ride.  It should never be absent or, for whatever reason, taken away.  This is often the aspect of the leg aid that confuses many riders; they initially only see the leg as a driving aid.

    Before we begin, it is necessary to understand that in order to use your leg correctly, you need to have developed an independent seat while you are riding.  Using your legs to balance or grip will make it impossible for you to use them to direct and ask questions of your horse.

    It is also important to realize that consistency is key to mastering the leg aids, for both you and your horse.

    If you wish to better your skills in the saddle, committing to being mindful and present as much as possible while you ride. This is particularly true when it comes to how, when and why you are using your legs.

    How Your Overall Position will Affect Your Leg Effectiveness

    The first aspect of beginning to use your legs as effectively as possible begins with ensuring you have a correct position in the saddle.  Many times an ineffective or ‘hokey pokey’ leg is caused by a faulty seat.  Make sure you are sitting on your seat-bones.  This will allow your legs to ‘fall’ down your horses sides.

    You ideally want to establish the first of the two all important ‘lines’ of riding; the head, shoulder, hip to heel.  What is important to point out here is that your hip is not your backside!!

    Another way to think of this line and really know if it is true and correct is to imagine that if we could click our fingers and ‘abbrakedabra’ our horse away, you should technically land on your feet; not your backside and not on your face… Your feet should be underneath you at all times in the saddle!

    Learning to ‘Drape’ Your Legs Around Your Horse

    Once you have established what is right for you, don’t squeeze or tense your legs to keep them in position, this will happen naturally if your seat is correct and your hips and pelvis is open and relaxed.

    Keep in mind that how your legs ‘fall’ depends a great deal on how you are actually put together!

    In fact, the fall of your leg will depend on many different factors, the most obvious being both you and your horses conformation as well as the saddle etc.  Sometimes taking a few photos of yourself in the saddle from the side and behind can help you establish if your position is indeed correct to the best of the situation.

    Different Situations results in Different Applications

    Next thing to begin thinking about is the type of leg aid necessary for a given situation, and the degree to which it should be used.  This depends a lot on the horse himself and the type of questions you are intending to ask with your legs.

    Generally speaking, hotter horses respond better to a consistent pressure.  Laid back, docile horses prefer to be asked and then the aid taken away.  This action can then be repeated as much as necessary to achieve the desired result.  

    One of the biggest problems faced by many riders is that both these applications of the aids almost seems to appear counter-intuitive when they initially begin working with a horse that may be similar to either of the two I just mentioned.

    A ‘Hot’ Horse Versus a ‘Laid Back’ Horse

    A hot or sensitive horse almost invites us to keep our leg off, training the rider to just apply a mere hint of an aid when they feel it is absolutely necessary…  Frustratingly, this will just compound the problem and condition the horse even more that the leg is something which they must run away from.

    Strangely these same sensitive horses actually respond much better to a steady consistent pressure or contact from the leg, rather than short bursts of an aid here and there…

    Similarly, the same is true for the more laid back horses of the world.  The rider feels like they must give continuous, strong leg aids, usually to the tune of squeezing or ‘pumping’.  Unfortunately, this often increases their frustration as their horse ignores them more and more… These types of horses respond better to short, concise directions that are given when needed…

    Like all things worth doing, learning which aid to apply to a particular horse for the best result takes time.  However it is well worth the investment in the long run.

    The Varying Degrees of Pressure

    The third factor to consider when applying your leg aids is the degree of pressure that you use when applying the aid.  Again, this depends on many factors.  These include those we have already spoken about and others.  The feed your horse is receiving, if he is stabled or turned out.  Look at the work he is doing, his fitness levels.

    Even outside factors such as the weather conditions at that time, the riding conditions…  The list is endless and as I mentioned at the beginning, this again falls under the category of developing your feel as a rider.  Luckily, all of these things, you can work on daily and become aware of every time you get into the saddle.

    In fact, only through increasing your mindfulness will you have any lasting success in increasing the effectiveness of your leg aids.

    When it comes to actually applying your leg aids,  we can broadly break the term leg aids down into three different and distinct categories.  It is important to keep in mind that within these three categories, the aids can be further divided up based on degrees of pressure and regularity of occurrence.

    Your Driving Leg Aid

    The first is the driving aid.  Terms to describe this particular aid can often be heard resounding around arenas, ringing in the ears of exhausted riders.  Exasperated instructors and trainers can be seen, turning red in the face and heard roaring “Put Your Leg On!!” or “Give Him Some Leg!!”.  Sometimes, a short, repetitive and quite often effective ‘LEG!!” will do the trick.

    What the instructor or trainer is trying to say is ‘Use your leg to create initial energy in your horse’… Hmmm, come again?!

    I suggest thinking of your driving leg as turning the ignition or key in your car, or just switching on the vacuum cleaner. You ask and it responds without having to be continuously pushed in or turned.  When your horse is truly listening to your aids, this will also happen when you apply this aid.

    I recommend  that you imagine your legs are going to wrap underneath your horses tummy and pick him up.  Try lengthening your leg and then imagine that using your calves, you are going to lift his barrel up underneath you.  Of course, if you do really imagine doing this, your seat and core will also begin to respond in the correct way to ask for the forward movement.

    Your Maintenance Leg Aid

    The second use of the leg aid is a more maintenance aid.  Once your horse is going forward, this will be used to keep him doing so in the way you desire.  This is often expressed as ‘Keep Your Leg On’ or ‘Hold Him with Your Leg’.

    There is confusion surrounding this application of the leg aid.  Many riders turn purple in the face from the physical exertion of squeezing continuously while riding… Which of course is not what this means at all!

    If you can think of your legs as being the barriers on the side of the road.  Except instead of keeping your horses direction on the straight and narrow (which of course your legs help to do) rather, for this aid, think of keeping the energy being created focused where you want it go.

    Its like when you use the accelerator pedal in your car to go faster (your driving aid).  Once you have reached your desired speed you lighten the pressure.  This is while still keeping your foot on the pedal.  You are now maintaining that speed (keeping your leg on).

    Your Relaxed ‘Leg Off’ Leg Aid

    The final term and leg aid that often confuses riders is the ‘Relax Your Leg’ or ‘Take Your Leg Off’.  Again, this does not literally mean what it says.  In fact, trying to lift your legs off your horses sides for any length of time will quickly tire you out! This often results in twisting your upper body to compensate.

    Rather this means that, given the situation, think of softening your leg in order to achieve a particular outcome  

    For example, often relaxing your outside leg while leg yielding will allow your horse to actually move to the outside.  It creates a ‘door’ of sorts for him to move through.  Again, the use of this aid depends a lot on the situation and circumstances of it being applied.

    Becoming more mindful as to how you use your legs involves paying attention to the reaction you receive from your horse.  Keep in mind that only through consistent correct practice will you eventually achieve a ‘better’ leg.  This will lead to having almost invisible conversations with your horse.  Quiet and soft, with the result you desire.

    Happy Riding
    Lorna

    You can purchase the audio trainings on this topic HERE

    Links to related content & freebies:-

  • Simplifying the Shoulder In

    Simplifying the Shoulder In

    [fusebox_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/SFA411-Simplifying-the-Shoulder-In.mp3″ title=”Simplifying the Shoulder In” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” ]

    Does the thoughts of riding shoulder in leave you feeling less than confident in your riding abilities?  Are you a little unsure about the angle, the bend, and the degree of collection required in order to successfully ride the movement?

    Shoulder in is super for encouraging suppleness and collection in your horse. However, if ridden incorrectly, things can quickly begin going the opposite way of your desired results…

    Shoulder in is a great movement to begin really flexing and strenghtening your horse.  However, for many riders it seems far too complicated to even consider riding.

    What is Shoulder In?

    Shoulder in is a lateral movement and when ridden correctly, will entail your horse bending around your inside leg. The shoulders will be at an approximately 30-degree angle to the side of the track or arena. With the shoulders in, you will then ask your horse to move forward on the line, moving away from the direction he is bent.

    It is also important to mention that the bend should be consistent from head to tail, not broken or over-bent in places.

    Simplifying the Half Halt

    3 Tracks, not 2 or 4…

    Normally when we ride our horses forward, we do so on 2 tracks; namely made of the inside hind leg following the inside fore and then the outside hind following the outside fore.

    However, for shoulder in, you will ask your horse to shift his shoulders more to the inside, off the track, which will result in your horse travelling on three tracks.

    Track number 1 will be the outside hind leg. The second track, number 2 or the middle track, being made up of the inside hind following the outside foreleg.  And finally, the inside foreleg on its own separate track, creating track number 3.

    Suppleness & Crossing Legs

    As your horse performs shoulder in, his inside legs will cross over and in front of the outside legs. This will be more apparent with the front legs, rather than the back legs.

    Also, as your horse becomes stronger and more developed and balanced, he will become lighter in front. This will lead to a more expressive movement through the shoulders while performing the shoulder in.

    Before Working on Shoulder In

    Before starting out teaching your horse the shoulder in, it is worth noting that he should have a good understanding of leg yielding. He should also have started showing some collection in the gait.  Additionally, the ability to make small adjustments to his stride while consistently maintaining the rhythm, tempo, forward energy, and balance throughout will help.

    The leg yielding is important for a few reasons. The most notable being that he understands the forward and sideways movement. This while remaining straight through the leg yield.  

    The straightness is important because it is this same straightness that will allow him to keep his hindquarters on the track while shifting his front end off the track and bending around your inside leg.

    Preparing for the Movement

    The quality of the shoulder in depends on the quality of the gait leading up to it… Preparation is key to a good shoulder in!

    I suggest introducing the shoulder in, for both you and your horse, in the walk.  This will allow both of you the necessary time to ‘figure’ things out in both your minds. It also, more importantly, gives you time to figure out how to move your bodies accordingly.  Often riders try to rush the shoulder in and this often leads to the horse remaining straight through their back and over bent through the neck.

    Shoulder in is only really shoulder in if the actual shoulders move in off the track!

    The Angle of the Shoulder In

    Before we go any further, I think we should look at the angle of the shoulder in.  What the angle means, is that of your horse’s shoulders to the original track you were riding on.

    Often riders try for too great an angle than the 30° that is required.  If the angle is too great, your horse will not be able to perform the movement.

    Simplifying the Shoulder In

    To help visualize 30° I suggest bending your elbows and putting your hands out in front of you, palms facing each other, about hip-width apart (like a robot!).  Pivot your upper body around 90° from your hips, so your arms are essentially creating a right angle to the line your hips are on and where you were originally facing.

    Now, once there, think about it like this… If this is 90°, let’s now move your hands back to 45°…  So estimate halfway and move your hands and shoulders there…

    Now, 30° is actually only 2/3 of the way to 45°… so once again, do a little estimation of what a third of the way would look like, and again adjust your hands and arms to there… And voila; the angle is not as severe as most riders first imagined it to be!

    It can also help to get out a trusty protractor and, using the straight side as the track, look at where 30° actually is…  Again, it is not 45°!

    Start on a Circle in Walk

    To actually ride your first shoulder in, I recommend starting walking a 10m circle in the corner. As you complete the circle, begin to ride the long side of your arena while asking for shoulder in.  Notice the bend in your horse and as you move down the track, focus on keeping the hindquarters on the original track where they should be, but the shoulders ‘in off the track’ at about a 30-degree angle.

    Ride this for 3 or 4 strides and then, to finish or ride out of the shoulder in, rather begin another circle where you are than try to place your horses shoulders back on the track.  This is easier for your horse to achieve and feels like a more natural conclusion when first learning about the shoulder in.

    Your Circle is a Tool…

    Use your 10m circle to begin your preparations.  Notice your position while on the circle and make any adjustments to correct it.  Pay particular attention to your shoulders and upper body. It is often tempting to ‘lean in’, which inevitably pushes your hips and seat to the outside of the saddle.   Use your half halt on the circle to balance your horse. And, also, tell him that something is about to happen…

    Use the natural bend created by riding on the circle to help place your horse in the correct position as you come off the circle and begin to move down the track.  The half halt will help keep you both balanced and, depending on your horse, you can ask for a degree of collection in the gait.

    As your horse takes the first step of shoulder in, pay attention again to your upper body.  Your shoulders must be kept in line with your horse’s shoulders. Also, take care to carry yourself and your upper body. This will, in turn, allow your horse’s front end to lighten a little as the weight is transferred onto the inside hind leg as it comes underneath him.

    Your Aids Through Shoulder In

    Although you should look where you are going, I suggest rather keeping your head in line with you and your horse’s shoulders. Look through the ears, rather than glancing out the corner of your eye down the school at the track.  The reason is that when riders first begin riding shoulder in, they tend to turn their shoulders to keep in line with their head…  Which, in the case of looking down the track of the arena, will lead to you shifting your weight incorrectly in the saddle.

    Your inside leg is what the horse is ‘bent’ around. It is used to keep creating the forward energy and the sideways movement happening underneath you.  

    It is your outside leg that controls your horse’s hindquarters and prevents them from swinging out, which is a common fault in shoulder in.

    Your outside leg also helps to keep the horse moving forward and keep the outside hind leg moving underneath the horse. This, in turn, will encourage better use of the inside hind leg, allowing the horse to lighten more in front and free up the shoulders for better movement.

    Your outside hand supports the outside leg and controls the degree of bend, It also helps regulate the rhythm and also controls the horse not to continue on with the ‘circle’ or become over bent.  Your inside hand asks for the flexion, however must remain soft and giving throughout the movement.

    It is up to you, the rider, to find and then maintain a balance between both hand and leg aids in order to maintain a consistent bend and angle throughout the movement.

    Trouble-Shooting Your Shoulder In

    The shoulder in can go wrong in many different ways…  Your horse may over-bend through the neck while keeping his back straight.  This is often caused by too much inside hand on the rider’s part and must not be mistaken for a correct shoulder in.

    Another way too much inside hand shows up is in the rider crossing their hand over the horse’s neck, from inside to outside… Your inside is your inside, your outside is your outside!!

    Riders can also become overly tense while trying to ride the movement. This causes them to ‘pinch’ their thighs and close their pelvis.  Which generally results in the rider getting ahead of the movement, slouching through their upper body, and being unable to correctly use their aids.  Particularly legs to maintain the forward energy.

    All too often, lack of preparation will result in too fast a tempo or lack of rhythm in the movement. This causes the horse to become heavy on the forehand and become unable to use their shoulders correctly.

    Developing Your Shoulder In

    Later, as you become more skilled at asking the correct questions at the correct times and your horse becomes more skilled at actually carrying out the movement, you can begin to ask for shoulder in down the centerline or across the diagonal.  However, initially, I strongly suggest you use the track on the arena. This will help you to gauge where the hindquarters must remain and the angle of the shoulders.

    Shoulder in can be performed in walk, trot and later, canter.  As your horse develops greater strength and balance, he will become more able to transfer his weight from the front end to the back-end.  

    It is also important to note that the angle of the shoulder in may vary slightly depending on the horse and the level of training and suppleness. However, all should be equal on both reins.  Any resistance on either rein should be noted and worked on overtime.

    Shoulder in often initially seems like a daunting task. However, if you approach it correctly, in a well prepared, patient, and relaxed manner, once your horse can begin to perform the movement, it will open many more doors. And, it will pave the way to further lateral movements and greater strength and suppleness throughout his body.

    Happy Riding

    Lorna

    Related posts, episodes, and freebies you may enjoy:-

  • Harnessing the Power of the Half Halt

    Harnessing the Power of the Half Halt

    [fusebox_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/SFA406-Harnessing-the-Half-Halt.mp3″ title=”Harnessing the Power of the Half Halt” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” ]

    The half-halt should be one of the earliest things that riders learn to master when learning to ride their horse. It is a vital part of riding well and being able to perform accurate, balanced movements with your horse.

    However, while many riders understand the concept of the half-halt in theory, unfortunately, the carrying out of the actual movement leaves a lot of room for improvement.

    What is the Half Halt?

    The half-halt is essentially a rein check or a postponement. You are asking your horse for his undivided attention and letting him know that something is about to happen.

    When ridden correctly, the half-halt can be used to re-balance your horse, to ask him for his attention, prepare him for an upcoming movement, to ask for more self-carriage or collection, to steady or slow him down, to set up transitions and, in fact, should be sprinkled generously throughout your ride from start to finish.

    Harnessing the Power of the Half halt

    When and Why Should I Use It?

    There are so many different situations where the half-halt is required while riding that many riders may become confused as to where exactly to perform the movement. How often it should be applied is also a source of confusion. Along with what intensity or firmness.

    Each half halt, in essence, is similar regardless of the reason for using it. However, there are slight differences depending on many factors between the horse, rider, and present circumstances. 

    The more you ride and practice the half halt, the better you will become at using just the correct amount of pressure at the correct time. Regardless of the horse or circumstances.

    How Do I Ride a Half Halt?

    To perform the half halt, the rider uses three different aids, the seat, the legs, and the hands. Many riders struggle to use all three aids in such close conjunction with each other. And, often, this lack of co-ordination from the rider often results in a deterioration of the horse’s way of going.

    A true half halt, as we mentioned before, is a postponement of the forward energy.

    However, what is important to notice here is that the forward energy must remain and continue to be created by the rider, at the correct times, so the horse does not stop or break from what it is doing.

    There is a previous blog post & audio lesson HERE on using your seat while riding

    Its an ‘Invisible Aid’…

    The other point worth mentioning before we get into the nuts and bolts of the half halt is that it should be barely visible to others watching you ride. I say barely because if a person is well-trained in what to look for, they will of course see these little ‘rein checks’.  However, to the average spectator, it will look as though nothing is happening.  The horse is simply remaining in a balanced and consistent way of going.

    The half halt does require a certain amount of strength and development from the horse, as there is a transfer happening from the front end, more onto the back-end.  

    Strength & Training

    This results in the hindquarters coming underneath the horse and bearing more weight. Many riders forget to allow for this lack of training and development in young or green horses. They can become frustrated when the half halt does not result in the desired action happening underneath them.  Or as ‘big’ of a difference occurring. Horses must learn what the movement is, and over time, become capable of performing it correctly.

    Practice by firstly using the thought of the half halt as an opportunity to correct and ‘fix’, if necessary, your position while riding

    Setting Up the Movement

    Check that your basic position is free of any obvious errors and that your legs are underneath you.  It is important that your legs must remain underneath you throughout the half halt.  In order to maintain the forwardness of your horse’s movement and energy, your legs must be ‘on’ and applied first when asking for the half halt.

    Once you have engaged your horse with your legs, you will then use your seat and hands together to ‘resist’ or ‘slightly contain’ the energy and perform that ‘rein-check’ that we spoke of.  This will only happen for a split second. Then you will soften allowing your horse to move forward again. From here, use your legs once again to help create that forward energy.

    Remember, the half halt only lasts a split second; any longer and you are having a tug of war!

    Your Seat When Asking…

    One of the biggest challenges riders have is when they activate their seat and core in the half halt. Their lower legs tend to shoot out in front of them. This results in the rider’s feet being somewhere near or on the horse’s shoulders!

    Practice engaging your core in a ‘resisting’ motion for a split second. All the while making sure your legs are correctly underneath you.  Your legs are vital to keeping your horse moving forward and working correctly.

    As I mentioned earlier, the half halt is a slight postponement of the energy, not a cancellation!

    When using your seat and core, make sure you are carrying your upper body, to allow the muscles around your pelvis to work correctly.  Try not to brace your lower back, in an attempt to lean back.  This will result in a jarring feeling and the beginning of the end with regards to the forward energy you have created!  Also, make sure you don’t crouch or curve your upper back. This movement generally correlates with an overuse of the hand and lack of seat and core in the half halt.

    Not A ‘One Time Only’ Event

    Also keep in mind that you may need to perform numerous half halts in order to achieve your desired outcome.  

    Keep each one short, quick and correct.  If you ‘hold’ the position or the half halt for too long, your horse will begin to lean against you. This is exactly the opposite of what you want to achieve in the first place.

    Take time to begin coordinating your different aids so that once ‘put together’, your half halt will appear seamless and fluid. It will work with your horse. Not against. This will help to both balance and steady.  It often helps to say something while you are performing the movement, as it will help you better establish the cause and effect that you are making happen underneath you.

    A simple ‘Steady’ said out loud can be enough to help this movement become a subconscious one for you in the long run.

    Timing the Half Halt

    As with all things relating to horse riding, the timing of the movement and aids are also important.  Once you have successfully managed to use your different aids together to achieve the desired result, begin noticing what is happening underneath you.

    As you become more adept at feeling which foot is falling when you will grow more confident in asking for the half halt at the correct time.

    This is usually when the horse’s back hoof has been placed on the ground.

    Harnessing The Power of the Half Halt

    Sprinkle Around the Arena

    Train your body to automatically begin using the half halt in particular areas of the arena or parts of your ride.  I initially suggest using corners, bends, or changes of direction as the initial trigger you use to remember to half halt.

    Soon, riding this movement without thinking about it during one particular aspect of your work will become second nature. This will allow you to free up your mind to begin working it into other areas.  Again, I suggest methodically and consistently until it again becomes something that just happens while you ride.

    Finally, mindfully develop your ‘feel’ as you use the half halt…  

    Different levels of intensity or different ways of riding the half halt will be necessary depending on the various factors that make up each situation, such as rider, horse, and circumstances surrounding that particular ride.

    Happy Riding

    Lorna

    Additional Resources for Equestrians:-

  • Schooling on the Trail

    Schooling on the Trail

    Trail riding or hacking is a fantastic way for both you and your horse to experience the world outside the gates of the arena.

    However many riders look at riding on the trail as merely a way to relax and unwind.  And while they are not wrong, riding along a bridle path is a fantastic way at boosting the connection between you and your horse, it is often an overlooked opportunity for schooling and working through different exercises and movement, with the advantage of doing so in a different environment and from a different perspective.

    [smart_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/SFA401-Schooling-Your-Horse-on-the-Trail.mp3″ title=”Schooling Your Horse on the Trail” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” tweet_text=”Schooling is not just for the arena; here are some ideas of the trail as well ” hashtag=”equestrian #horseriding #trailriding” twitter_username=”strides_success” ]

    The benefits of trail riding are numerous, from relaxation to preventing sourness in the arena.  From building confidence to helping your horse become more sure-footed and of course, strengthening tendons and ligaments with your road work.  Trail riding also helps increase and reinforces the bond between you and your horse, not to mention allowing you the opportunity to just enjoy your horse while surrounded by nature!

    The trail is very often an overlooked opportunity to work with your horse and engage their mind in a different and beneficial way than just endless circles and school movements in the arena.

    Schooling Your Horse on the Trail

    Many riders will agree that while out of the arena and on the trail, their horses have more energy and forward movement.  Focus your attention on how you deal with this new energy supply that you can harness while on the trail.

    Instead of fighting and arguing with your horse, which often only results in an uncomfortable jig-jog for the duration of the ride, rather direct that energy into some exercises and movements that, when performed in the arena, perhaps lack the same enthusiasm, flexion, suppleness and lightness.  

    In order to perform any of these movements, it is important to have first developed your eye to see a ‘line’.  Without the aid of the arena wall or fence, you may find that straightness while working becomes compromised, resulting in you riding ‘lines’ that have the ability to induce sea sickness in a sailor.

    Begin practicing this by softly focusing on something in the distance on the trail and then, paying careful attention to both you and your horses shoulders and hips, ride straight to that object.  This is the sort of exercise that really benefits from ground where you leave a track of hoof prints behind you.

    Once you can ride a fairly straight line and hold that line as you work, you can then begin adding some transitions onto the line, again, paying attention to how straight both you and your horse is through the transition and how established the rhythm and tempo are when riding each gait.

    As I mentioned, often while on the trail, you horse will be more exuberant in his movement, which you can use to your advantage.  Rather than trying to ‘rein the energy in’, work with it and shift your mindset to this new ‘normal’ when working outside of the arena.

    After working through your transitions, you should have a more defined ‘line’ in your head, which will be important for the next movement I suggest you ride; shallow 5m loops.  Most tracks and trails are at the very least 3 meters wide,  and if your track does not allow the full 5m, vary your movement to 3 meters.  What is important here is that you are focusing on straightness, then the bend, and then changing the bend and back to the straight line.

    Having the ‘line’ clearly defined in your head will be paramount to performing the movement correctly.  You may also have to practice this a few times on the trail, firstly in walk and then trot due to the extra energy your horse has on the trail meaning that it will look and feel different to how he would normally ride it in the arena.

    Later, as both you and horse get better and better at this, you can begin performing the exercise in canter, which is a great introduction to counter canter.  Just remember that when riding a 5 meter shallow loop in canter, the horses bend must stay over the lead leg.  Often the temptation to ‘steer’ the horse back to the line using your hand and reins is very strong, however this will change the bend.  You must use your legs to ask the horse where to go with his body in this exercise.

    You can also change the ‘length’ of your loop, and begin asking for more loops from your horse in the same distance.  This will test both you and your horses balance and ability to wait.  It will also require a degree of suppleness if it is to be ridden correctly.

    Schooling Your Horse on the Trail

    Another exercise which is often easier when outdoors on the trail is leg yielding.  You can ask your horse to yield from one side of the road to the other, over and back and over again.  This too can first be asked for in walk and then later in trot.  Break the yielding by mixing it with straight-lines and transitions as well, so your horse can also rest.

    Shoulder in can also be incorporated into your ride.  Again, you need to have a well-defined ‘line’ and your horse will also have to have a certain level of prior training.

    It is worth mentioning that introducing these exercises slowly and for small periods of time is important to keeping your trail riding productive.  If in the past, your horses experience of riding on the trail or anywhere outside of the arena has been to relax, it will do both him and you good to, as always, warm up correctly and then ask for 2 to 5 minutes of work.  Follow this with a break or relax period and then ask for another short period of work.

    Introduce the exercises slowly, allowing your horse to build his physical strength and abilities, while also conditioning him mentally, for schooling while on the trail; both of which are vital for success.

    Happy Riding
    Lorna

  • Slow Down Over Fences

    Slow Down Over Fences

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    Does your normally relaxed, sane, and rhythmic horse turn into his version of a racehorse each time he rounds a corner and spots anything that resembles a jump when you are riding?  Your quiet calm ride turns into a flat-out gallop, resembling the rush for the finish post on the final furlong of Aintree…  (minus the cheering crowds!)

    Unfortunately, horses rushing or racing over fences is a common problem for riders. And one that, once all pain or discomfort has been ruled out as the cause, only patience, time, and consistent correct schooling can help remedy and slow down your jumping experience.

    Why Do Horses Rush?

    Rushing over jumps may begin to become a habit because of lots of varied triggers for different horses and riders.  One of the more common ways is due to a lot of riders becoming anxious over fences. This is also true for the horses. They pick up on this anxiety and become a little tenser themselves.

    This feeds the rider’s anxiety, which in turn feeds the horses. A vicious cycle is created between horse and rider every time a fence appears on the horizon

    Alternatively, many horses when jumping need a lot of practice to maintain the same speed around a course of fences.  Most horses enjoy jumping. And they become naturally more excited and ‘goey’ as they progress through the course.

    Learning to Slow Down over Fence

    Why You Need to Slow Down

    The downside to this is that instead of getting their back end underneath them, the horse flattens out. This causes them to pull forward with the front end. It also allows the energy to literally fall out through the front door.

    When the horse does not slow down it can have a real negative effect on the outcome. As reaches the fence, he cannot get sufficient height with his heavy front end.  He also cannot use his back correctly over the fence. This leads to knocking rails or worse.

    Anxiety in the Rider

    Rushing fences also leads to even more anxiety in the rider, who will generally do one of two things…

    Firstly, they lean back, behind the movement and haul on the reins with all their might.  

    While the horse will usually lift its head, it will also hollow its back. This, again makes it impossible to use its back correctly.  Also, when they do get to the fence, the rider is so focused on slowing the horse, that they usually end up being left behind over the fence. This causes discomfort and a loss of balance for both horse and rider.

    The other way I see riders react to a horse that runs at fences is to lean forward, hamster style, and just hold on.  

    They become completely ineffective as a rider. They are no longer supporting or carrying themselves. And all the while, the horse is getting faster and faster. Becoming heavier and heavier on the forehand.  Hamster style and hiding, the rider fails to do anything!

    This particular situation generally ends in one of two ways. The horse runs out of the fence with the rider coming off over the dropped shoulder. Or the rider stays on for the jump but hits the deck at the inevitable next turn after the fence.  Both, for obvious reasons, only increase the rider’s anxiety levels.

    Engaging the Hind Quarters

    As I mentioned before, in order for your horse to correctly use himself over the fence, the power must come from his hindquarters.  If you can just imagine a cat preparing to jump up onto a windowsill…  He first ‘rocks’ back onto his ‘hocks’, placing his back legs squarely underneath his body. Then, from that position, springs up by pushing off with his back legs, up onto the windowsill.

    Now, I do realize that a horse is built a bit differently from a cat, but the same principles apply.  His hocks must come more underneath his body in order to propel him cleanly over the fence.

    Learning to Slow Down over Fences

    Not only that, if the rider has collapsed their upper body, or gone into their jumping position too early which often happens with nervous and anxious riders, all their weight is now sitting squarely on the horses front end, making it even more difficult to lift the and shoulders and front legs out of the way of the fence.

    This is often why the horse will run out… It just becomes physically impossible for them to safely get from A to B over the fence.

    Starting with Reschooling The Rider

    All of these scenarios only lead to further issues for both horse and rider.  I believe when teaching a seasoned rusher to slow down over the fences, the training has to first begin with the rider’s mindset and control of their body and aids.  Only when this has been improved or changed can the horse can be worked on.

    A secure and correct jumping position is vital when working over bigger fences, but it is also necessary when working with a horse that rushes its jumps.

    Being able to direct the horse, while keeping out of his way over the actual fence is an essential element to riding clear rounds.

    One of the most important habits we can cultivate as a rider is to be able to ride through and focus on the end goal, regardless of what distractions or invitations crop up while getting there.

    What I mean by this, is to keep the focus on your aids.  Pay attention that you are correctly asking for what you are desiring your horse to do, at all times.  Don’t allow your body to shut down, and just become a passenger.  It is your responsibility as a rider to keep your sights set firmly on whatever goal you have set for you and your horse.

    Riding Individual Lines

    However, often the goal is simply just too big, so rather break it down; instead of looking to ride a course of fences, see the course as a series of individual lines that are merely joined together.  Rather ride each individual line, stride for stride, and when you have successfully completed one, then move onto the next line, again stride for stride.

    This is easier said than done. But in order to slow things down physically, you must condition yourself to slow them down mentally first.

    Begin with riding a straight line, on the quarter line of your arena. Place a single pole on this line. Ride over it in the canter. Focus on riding that line as straight as you possibly can. Also, halt while still on the line before the corner or bend.  Notice how, when you are thinking about halting before that corner, you are preparing for that all along… Not only focusing on the pole anymore.  I

    n fact, the pole is merely an obstacle to overcome before you get to what you are truly doing, which is the halt.

    The Importance of Straightness…

    It is important to note here that the line must be straight.  In order to successfully navigate a course of connected fences, your horse must be able to jump in a straight line.  This is not only essential to getting over a single fence, but also related distances, lead changes, and riding correctly through the corners as well.

    You will often see that many horses that rush fences, will tend to drift to one side or the other. This becomes even more noticeable through combinations.  Of course, straightness is also the key to preventing run outs.

    Work on establishing straightness as the rule early in your horse’s training, so as to minimize problems later as the fences get higher.

    Working Over Small Fences

    Once you and your horse are comfortable able to this on both reins, build a small fence where the pole is.  SMALL… 18 inches or so.  I want the fence to be so inconsequential that, again, it is merely a small obstacle between you and that lovely straight halt.

    If you find that, once the fence has been added to the exercise, your horse is beginning to rush, I want you to take things back again…

    Are you riding each stride with purpose or are you simply reacting to your horses rushing and riding defensively or not at all?

    If indeed your horse is rushing, place a ground pole about 9′ on either side of the fence.  Again, try to ride the fence with the same controlled, rhythmic canter that you achieved when there was only a pole there and aim for that straight halt afterward

    ReTraining Takes Time

    This may take weeks to achieve; horses develop habits, just like us, and unfortunately rushing is a habit that will take time to reprogram in your horse’s head.  All the while as you are working through the exercise, continuously check that you are indeed riding the actual line and not just reacting to the situation.

    Stride for stride… Keeping straight all the way through and asking your horse to follow your lead and do the same.

    As you and your horse learn to wait for the fence to arrive, I would then suggest moving the two ground poles further away from the fence.  However, this depends on the length of your arena.  If possible, moving them 5 strides on either side of the fence.  And then, working through the same exercise, balanced, rhythmic strides to the fence and away from the fence.  The aim is to ride, again, a straight halt before the corner or end of the line.

    Happy Riding
    Lorna

    Additional Resources to Help with This Topic

     

  • Developing Your Horses Self Carriage

    Developing Your Horses Self Carriage

    When you are riding, is your horse carrying himself, or are you in-fact carrying him? 

    Self carriage in horses can be explained as your horse carrying himself, without needing support from or relying on you, the rider, in order to continue and maintain the movement he is performing.

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    Your horses ability to carry himself comes from him being responsible for his own body, balanced physically and also mentally because he understands what is expected of him and is confident that he can do it.

    Developing Self Carriage in your horse

    As you ride, stop directing for a few strides; will your horse be confident, competent, balanced and able to maintain the correct amounts of impulsion and tension to ‘hold’ what he is doing, until you come back with further instructions?

    Unfortunately, for most riders the answer is no! In fact, most horses are ridden in such a way that they may never be truly able to achieve and maintain a degree of self carriage in higher levels of performance and work.

    Self carriage comes from your horse being encouraged to work by himself, confident in his own abilities and your consistent correction only when he gets things wrong.  Self carriage is really self motivation on your horses part and his knowing that when you ask for something it is his job to respond and then continue until asked to do differently.

    However this simply cannot happen if you, as the rider, are micro-managing every movement.

    The riders job is not to support the horse through every stride, but rather to influence the horses movements and balance, which will then, over time, allow the horse to develop the necessary strength to support himself, and achieve true self carriage.

    Another important aspect is the level of trust which must develop between both horse and rider and also, the horses confidence in himself and the same of the rider in herself.

    This is where developing ‘feel’ as a rider is important.  You must be able to feel that he is about to go wrong, or about to lose his balance, or about to stop what is being asked and then act on this before it happens.  Once you have given the aids to get your horse back on track, again, stop giving them and allow him to perform the movement.

    There is a blog post and audio lesson on Improving Your Feel in the Saddle HERE.

    Self carriage requires the horse to be balanced, supple, have the required level of physical strength and his being capable of using this in a controlled and consistent way every time.

    Self Carriage

    Often we see horses in the paddock or field with wonderful self carriage, prancing around, 100% control of their body. They display athletic abilities and prowess that often, as the rider, we can only dream of emulating while in the saddle.

    The disconnect comes because under the saddle, the riders influence pays a huge part.  Rider are often asking their horse for completely different movements, unbeknownst to them, by moving around in the saddle. Unfortunately, if there is not a high level of understanding and awareness on the riders part as to how to control their body while riding, these questions may conflict each other, ruining any hope of obtaining true self carriage.

    It takes calmness of mind from both horse and rider to achieve true self carriage and also the knowledge that self carriage in a young, green or preliminary level horse looks and feels different to self carriage in a well schooled, experienced grand prix level horse.

    When schooling our horses, it is important to introduce new movements slowly and gradually. Remember that the level of balance, for new exercises, will be in direct proportion to the muscles strength and ability while being used that way.  When balance is lost, apply the correct aids quickly to correct your horse, and over time allow him to hold this balance longer and longer in the movement.

    Also remember that self carriage will require different use of the muscles depending on what movement is being performed. Extended trot will both look and feel very different to collected trot and so on.

    Developing self carriage, I feel, begins by the rider working on gaining full control of their aids and developing the ability follow when their horse responds correctly.

    If he responds immediately and correctly to what you are asking… stop asking!  Bring your aids back to neutral and allow him to do what you have asked of him.  If he begins to lose what you have asked or if he wanders (both mentally or physically) off track from what you are asking, then use your aids to correct him.  As soon as he responds and is back where you want, shift back to neutral again.

    Riders, whether consciously or not, often nag their horses continuously while riding.  This will work against your horse developing himself enough to achieve self carriage.  It is important to develop the skills to ask and then allow your horse to perform his movements.  A horse that can only work when his rider is controlling every little micro movement is, in all disciplines, not going to be a successful one and, in some cases may even become downright dangerous to ride.

    The first thing you can do to help your horse to achieve self carriage is carry yourself and make sure your position is correctly applied in order to support your horse and cause as little distraction and hindrance as possible.

    Ask your horse to halt.   Rather than worrying about the quality of the halt for now,  rather notice if is happy to stop where you ask and then wait for further instruction.  If he is jig jogging, side stepping, pulling, leaning, walking on, reversing, do a quick check of your position and what aids you are applying.

    Do the same when you ask him to walk on.  Notice how quickly he responds and if you have to ask more than once, back this up with your whip or spur.  Once he is indeed walking, just allow him to walk.

    One of the most difficult things to do as a rider is nothing!  Nothing is just being neutral and rather only applying aids when necessary.

    • Pay attention to what you are asking, are you nagging?
    • Are you being heavy?
    • Are you fidgeting or nudging, patting, tapping, and just micro managing your horses every move?

    If so, you need to control yourself and only ‘talk’ when you are required to do so!  Again, bring your horse back to halt and notice if he does as you ask and then awaits further instruction or if he is continuously moving and fighting.  If so, correct quickly and then return to neutral.  Repeat the exercise again until you are confident that your horse is responding in a timely and proportionate manner to each question you ask.

    We said at the beginning that self carriage becomes possible as your horse develops his balance and suppleness.  A way to do this is by working and developing his top-line.

    You can do this by working on a 20m circle in a long and low frame.  He must work from behind, pushing with his back end. Make sure you are not continuously correcting and ‘holding’ him in position, but rather guiding and correcting before it becomes necessary.

    Notice how balanced he feels and once he is reaching down for the contact, stretch your hands to him for 1 or 2 strides.  Notice if he can hold himself, in this self carriage, even if just for a second or two to begin with and then work on lengthening the time he can support himself.

    Happy Riding!

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