Strides for Success

Tag: relaxation

  • Confidently Getting Started Over Jumps

    Confidently Getting Started Over Jumps

    Confidently getting Started Over Jumps

    What this episode is all about & how it can help you:-

    • Why the basics still apply
    • Why balance is essential; for both you and your horse
    • Think of helping your horse, rather than hindering
    • How to begin perfecting over small jumps first

    [smart_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/1038-Getting-Started-Over-Jumps.mp3″ title=”Confidently Getting Started Over Jumps” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” tweet_text=”Thinking about jumping but feeling a little overwhelmed about the ‘up and over’? Here is how to confidently get started over jumps” hashtag=”equestrian” twitter_username=”strides_success” ]

    Does the thought of jumping with your horse fill you with excitement?  Is that excitement mixed with a dash of fear?  Like most riders, you probably have thought about jumps and jumping.  And yet thoughts of the ‘up and over’ tends to keep you, and them, away from it.

    This episode is all about jumps and, more specifically, getting you started over jumps in your riding.

    Working over jumps can be beneficial for both you, the rider, and horse.  It helps to keep things fresh and interesting.  It works both the brain and the body in a slightly different way.  But there can be the limiting perception of a ‘barrier to entry’ for many riders.  A very high barrier that perhaps you feel that you cannot get over in order to make it happen.

    I’m here today to tell you that you can not only get over the barrier, but enjoy yourself along the way as well.

    Jumping is really and truly just like riding a very big canter stride.  I am basing todays training on the prerequisite that you have a fair working knowledge of the canter;  how it works, what’s happening, what you should be doing and what your horse should be doing.

    From canter, beginning to jump is simply placing a pole underneath that canter stride.  I know this sounds like a very simplified description, but bear with me here.   My goal is to lower your anxiety towards jumps and jumping by at least a couple of notches!

    The Basics Apply Still – Especially Rhythm & Relaxation

    Successful jumping is built on the basics of good flatwork, with principles such as relaxation and rhythm being extremely important when it comes to jumping.  One of the most obvious ways riders start off on the wrong track when it comes to working over jumps is the tendency to confuse speed with impulsion.  Bounding towards a jump at great speed becomes scary for all involved; the rider, the horse and even the spectators.  It is definitely not how it should be done.

    Jumping is all about relaxation and rhythm, and that is why you should try to eliminate any anxiety as it shows up.

    Balance is Essential; Both You and Your Horse

    Start by cantering over a single pole.  Focus on your on balance as you do this.  Balance between and over the jumps is essential for both you and your horse.  Where many riders tend to fall short in the balance department, is that they depend on the horse to balance them.

    A good basic jumping position will help you to remain balanced using your own body.  You can practice this on the flat, before trying it out over a pole or, later, a fence.   

    It is important that you keep the weight into your heels, keep your leg underneath you, and you use your bum to basically balance the upper half of your body – a little like a weighing scale effect.  Lastly, your horse must be given enough freedom through his head and neck, for him to stretch out and make it over the canter pole, or whatever you are doing.

    Allowing does not mean that you throw everything at him and with a ‘best of luck’ attitude.  Remember, think about balance here.  Your horse also needs to remain in balance.  It is no good you being balanced, if your horse is not.  Your job as rider is to help your horse remain balanced as well.  You can practice all of this while cantering over a single pole on the ground.

    Think of Helping Your Horse, Rather than Hindering

    This is a largely misunderstood principle in jumping.  Many riders, when they start jumping, think only of themselves.  They launch themselves forward towards the horse’s head, without a single consideration for how this will feel for their horse.

    If you have ever jumped anything yourself (on your two legs) with a backpack on your back, you are going to understand what I mean here.  Imagine yourself with your backpack on your back and some things inside.  This particular backpack is loose and is moving around – meaning it’s not very secure.  Jumping anything in this set of circumstances is hard work!

    However, let’s now change that backpack for a more professional type of backpack that hikers would use  One that is stabilised at the front as well as the back, where it fits correctly, and is shaped to suit the body of the person wearing it.  Everything is snugly packed inside and is not moving around, it is balanced and secure.  It now becomes a whole lot easier to jump something, with that on your back.  That is how you need to become for your horse.

    You need to become balanced and secure over the fence, rather than loose and floppy.  I know, simple words – but sometimes simple is easiest to understand!

    Your horse needs to lift his front legs to get over the fence.  If you launch yourself in the general direction of the horse’s head, you are make it very difficult for your horse to truly lift and use himself correctly.

    Resisting the Temptation to Throw Yourself Forward!

    Throwing yourself at your horse’s head means you are no longer balancing yourself, simply because your legs are no longer underneath you!  Your legs will be left behind in the saddle with the rest of your body on the horse’s neck.   Your weight is now being added to his own body weight that he has to lift in order to clear the fence.

    I think this happens because a lot of riders want to model their position on top show jumpers. However there is one big difference between a lot of riders and the top showjumpers – the height of the jumps! 

    You don’t really have to do a whole lot at all going over a small pole, the bigger factor here is that you are remaining balanced.  Balanced will help your horse, launching yourself will hinder.

    Make Perfect Over Small Jumps First

    Finally, I am strongly suggesting that you perfect things over the little jumps, even the pole on the ground, before you start building up.  If you can get it right over the smaller ones, you are inevitably going to get it right over the bigger ones.

    This way you will also get to build your confidence.  In building your confidence, you build the relaxation.   When you build the relaxation, you will also find that the rhythm becomes more natural as well. 

    The result will be an approach that feels good, a correct take off and you and your horse feeling balanced and ‘a team’ as you are going over the fence. Everything is in balance, relaxed and rhythmic.  From there you are perfectly poised to either go on to your next fence, or whatever you want to do.

    The Benefits of Starting Working Over Jumps

    Unfortunately a lot of riders may feel that working over jumps is not for them.  However, if shown the value of including this in their schooling, a lot reconsider.  Values such as engaging a different sets of muscles within the horse and the rider.  Being prepared on the trail or a hack to pop over something you meet.

    Jumping also gives you a greater sense of this balance and this communication.  It is a real feeling of teamwork between the horse and the rider, that they must work together to get over this obstacle that is in the way.

    I suppose the important thing to remember is to take it slow and steady.  Work over smaller jumps initially before building to bigger, higher and more complex.   This way, you and your horse can successfully work out jumping, and get it working for both of you.

    Happy riding

    Lorna

    Links mentioned in the episode:

  • Using the Humble Figure of Eight in Your Schooling

    Using the Humble Figure of Eight in Your Schooling

    Correctly Riding the Humble Figure of Eight - Daily Strides Podcast

    [smart_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/1020-Using-the-Humble-Figure-of-Eight-in-Your-Schooling.mp3″ title=”Using the Humble Figure of Eight in Your Schooling” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” tweet_text=”Rethinking the Figure of Eight ” hashtag=”Horseriding #Podcast” twitter_username=”strides_success” ]

    What this episode is all about & how it can help you:-

    • How accuracy is key to riding a successful figure of eight
    • The importance of rhythm all the way through
    • The power of ‘straightness’ through the change
    • Identifying where your challenges lie

    The figure of eight can be a fantastic aid in your schooling of both yourself and your horse, if it is ridden correctly and given the focus and effort it deserves.

    The humble figure of eight is one of those things that we learn very early in our introduction to horse riding.  It can sometimes seem that it is too easy to really bother with, but the figure of eight is something you can use regardless of the level you are at in your riding.

    It is an exercise that has lots of different benefits, depending on what level you and your horse are at in your training.  For example, each of the different levels of the traditional training scale can we worked on when riding the figure of eight.

    What is the Figure of Eight?

    Simply put, the figure of eight is two circles, side by side so they look like the number eight.  What trips many riders up is the fact that while it sounds simple, riding a single accurate circle is anything but simple and has a lot of potential for things to go a little off track.

    When we put two circles together, this can lead to further challenges if not approached carefully and with a plan of how you are going to ride the movement. This is one of the reasons why the figure of eight can be so beneficial for your riding, by developing not only physically (you and your horse), but also mentally as well.  You must be able to concentrate for the amount of time it takes to get you through the full figure.

    Why Accuracy is Key to a Good Figure of Eight

    Your circles must be well planned out.  I am going to suggest that if you are not fantastic at riding a line to rather put markers out which will help keep you on track.  Put more markers than what you would think you need out there.  You are going to be thinking about so many other things when you are riding the figure of eight that probably the shape is going to be the part that ‘gives’.  And you don’t want that.

    In order for the figure of eight to be beneficial to your schooling, a correct bend must be maintained throughout the exercise.  Your markers will help you to achieve this.

    The second point to consider when speaking about accuracy with the figure of eight is the middle point where the two circles join.  You must be very specific on where exactly that point is.  I would suggest maybe putting two poles out that you have to go through each time to avoid the centre from moving!

    Knowing its exact location is essential for a good approach and an equally as good departure from it and onto the ‘new’ circle.

    Relaxation and Rhythm while riding a Figure of Eight

    Both relaxation and rhythm are key while riding the movement, whatever gait you are in.  Whether you are in walk, trot or canter you want to make sure that you have those basics in place.

    The basic that is you are relaxed and your horse is relaxed, particularly when it comes to that all important middle point. 

    As well as the relaxation, you also want to notice that you are working to maintaining the rhythm.  A lot of riders will find that when they are on the circle the rhythm is great, but as soon as they begin approaching that middle point.  This is because you are preparing a lot of things to happen in order to successful change rein at this point, and it is easy to lose the rhythm (or / and relaxation) because of this.

    Riding the Figure of Eight

    When you are riding a circle on the left rein (circling to the left), you are riding in a particular way.  Your outside leg is going to be slightly behind or back from where your inside leg is; they are definitely not equal on your horse’s sides.

    The same applies to our seat bones and also our shoulders – our shoulders are going to be mirroring our horse’s shoulders, and they are not going to be ‘equal’.

    However, when you are approaching the middle point of your figure of eight, all this needs to change.  Your inside will become your outside and your outside will become your inside.  A lot has to happen in a small space of time, so I suggest simplifying things by riding a couple of strides of straightness each time at the middle point.

    Giving yourself between three and five strides where you are straightening things out will allow you to be more accurate and also help to maintain the rhythm and relaxation through the change as well. 

    Potential Areas for Things to Go Wrong

    There are two key areas where things have a lot of potential to go off track when it comes to riding a figure of eight.  The first is where the one circle ends, as you are approaching the ‘X’ or middle point (the point where the two circles intersect).  That final quarter of the circle what can sometimes lose its shape due to your horse beginning to fall in.

    To prevent this from happening, you must ride every stride.  Even though you are thinking ahead and you are planning for those couple of strides of straightness, you are not ignoring that final quarter of that circle in order to get there.

    The circle has to continue and you have to maintain the bend and stay on track in order to make that happen.

    The second area where things can potentially go off track is when you have passed the intersection point (the middle ‘X’ point) and have started on your second circle.  It is easy to ride off track by going too far out or a little bit too short.  Basically, our horse either falls out, or falls in.

    There can be a few reasons for this, but it is usually due to the rider not being very clear about where they want to go.  The lack of clarity in the riders plan leads to a lack of clarity in the aids and the communication in general.

    Keeping on Track

    Again, the biggest reason most riders ride mediocre figure of eights is because they underestimate all that is involved in riding a successful one.

    Focus on sitting tall in the saddle, having a good plan about where you are going to ride and how and then making it happen.  Use markers to plan out that track that you want to ride on, and then as you get better at it you can take the markers away and start to use your own eye – your line – to ride it.

    Begin in walk, building up to trot and later canter.  In canter, you can transition through that ‘X’ back down to trot, or you can ride a flying change.

    The beauty of the figure of eight is how versatile it is depending on your level of riding.

    Riding a good quality figure of eight will lead to increased suppleness, which is the next step of that all-important Training Scale for both you and your horse.  But in order to work on suppleness, the foundational pieces of the rhythm and the relaxation must be in place.  Let them be your focus the next time you ride a figure of eight in the arena.

    Happy Riding

    Lorna

    Links mentioned in the episode:-

    Other content that will compliment this episode:-

  • The Training Scale for You & Your Horse

    The Training Scale for You & Your Horse

    The Training Scale for You and Your Horse

    It is always nice to have a plan or a map to follow when learning something new.  The training scale is that map for many riders when they begin schooling their horse.  However, the training scale can be equally as valuable for you, the rider.  It is a road map to help keep you on track with your riding.

    So before we begin, let’s be clear about what the training scale actually is.  The training scale is sequence of different aspects of training which, when worked through, has been found to develop horses correctly for being ridden.

    While each step is an individual aspect of training, none of them will be worked on individually.  There is a relationship between all of the steps – and that association must be maintained throughout the horses training.

    For the sake this blog post, we are going to call each of these aspects ‘steps’.  Another way to look at them is as blocks.  One must be laid down in order for the next to be placed on top. 

    They take a horse from the very foundational ‘basics’ of rhythm and relaxation and, when used correctly and thoughtfully, build up to the ‘pinnacle’, which is collection.

    The Training Scale - Strides for Success

    Many riders think of the training scale as being a ‘check list’ of sorts.  They feel that once they have reached step 1, they should only focus on mastering step 2 and so on.  When you consider the training scale, it is worth noting that no one step can be correctly achieved when another step has been ignored or cast aside in order to do so.

    The training scale should rather be approached with a more holistic mindset.  Yes, the bottom steps need to be in place in order to successfully build on the next step – but while mastering the bottom steps, a keen eye should be kept on all the steps.  This same principle applies when working on the top steps, the bottom steps need to be the basis of that work.

    No one step of the training scale can be taken and worked on independently and in a vacuum

    So taking this all into account, let’s have a quick overview of those steps and how they look for both horse and rider moving forward.

    The Foundation – Relaxation

    Relaxation is often included with or instead of the first two steps of the training scale.  However, I believe that relaxation starts before a saddle is ever even place on the horse.   The term relaxation is a confusing one for many riders; mostly due to our pre-programmed ideas of relaxation including a swimming pool, a lounger and a beverage!

    True relaxation is when horses and their riders lack excess tension, physically and mentally

    Some tension is needed in order for the horse to carry himself.  This is also true of the rider, a certain amount of tension is necessary.  It is the excess tension, caused by anxiety, stiffness, fear, nervousness, excitement and a whole list of other basic feelings, that causes the lack of true relaxation in the horse.

    The amount of relaxation required will depend on both horse and riders level of training.  Relaxation is relative, however it is also essential to correct riding – in both horse and rider.

    Step 1 – Rhythm

    Rhythm can be defined as a “strong, regular, repeated pattern of movement or sound”.  The key words in that description are regular, repeated pattern.   Each horse has their own natural rhythm.  This is equally true of riders.

    Rhythm, like relaxation, starts on the ground.  The rhythm of the routine you have created for your horse.  What works, what doesn’t.  Learning to know your horses natural rhythm begins here

    In the saddle, the repeated pattern is the footfalls or hoofbeats. The rhythm should not change.  It can be repeated more or less in a given time – and this the tempo that is being changed – but the rhythm itself should remain the same.

    As a rider, you must learn to first follow the rhythm.  Many riders try to force a rhythm on their horse, however forcing the rhythm will actually break your horses natural rhythm.

    Rhythm must initially be worked with, not worked on 

    A loss of rhythm will immediately direct your attention to a loss of balance.  It is learning to pin point that very first beat out of your horses natural rhythm that will determine your success as a rider.  Once the break in rhythm is identified, you can work at re-establishing it again.

    Rhythm & relaxation must be present in all other steps of the trainings scale in order for them to be correct and true

    Step 2 – Suppleness

    Suppleness, rhythm and relaxation are often shuffled around on the first two steps, depending on what training scale you are working from.  However, rather than allowing this to confuse you, think of all three as being equally as essential in order to begin building things further.  Visually, it would look like a triangle, all parts being necessary to maintain each other.

    Suppleness is the elasticity or ‘loosey gooseyness’ that your horse needs in order to use himself to the best of his abilities. It is the ease at which he can perform the work required of him

    Many riders think suppleness is address solely in the warm up phase of riding and schooling, however your horse must have suppleness throughout all his movements when being ridden.

    Stiffness will stop the energy flowing through your horse; and in order to truly connect your horses back-end and front ends together, that energy must be allowed to flow as easily as possible

    From the riders perspective, a lack of suppleness will negatively impact the horses way of going.  Riders often make the mistake of focusing only on their horses suppleness.  They then become frustrated as their progress seems to stall.  The rider must try to consistently improve their own suppleness if they wish to be effective in the saddle.  Remember, the training scale is equally as important for the rider as it is for the horse.

    Due to its direct impact on the flow of the energy through your horse, suppleness, along with relaxation and rhythm, must be present before your horse can begin working on step 3 of the training scale.

    The Training Scale for You and Your Horse

    Step 3 – Contact & Connection

    Once both you and your horse can perform work to a certain level while effectively maintaining relaxation, rhythm and suppleness, you can begin working on improving your contact and connection.

    I like to think of the contact as being a conversation with your horse.  A good conversation has a certain give and take, and ebb and flow, to it – and it is important to consider this when it comes to your contact

    Many riders think of contact as being the thing that creates the ‘head carriage’ in their horses ‘frame’.  Unfortunately if you approach contact or connection in this way, you will actually set your training – and your riding – backwards.

    Contact must first of all be established and then maintained as the horse is being ridden.  It requires soft hands, soft elbows and also good posture and position in the saddle.  A fixed contact will lead to the disappearance of the relaxation and suppleness in both you and your horse.

    Contact and connection are like the ‘banks’ of the river that is your horses flow of energy.  They are how you can begin to direct, influence and channel that energy as your horse is working

    For this reason, it is important to consider your overall position, seat and leg aids as being a part of the contact.  If you seat is heavy or if you are pushing, or shoving with your seat, that energy cannot flow, which will then prevent you from having that elastic contact you need in order to correctly work your horse.

    Steps 4, 5 and 6 – Impulsion, Straightness & Collection

    As your horse works through the first three steps of the training scale, rhythm, suppleness and contact, it is important to keep the next steps in mind.

    For example, there is a certain amount of energy needed to come from behind, impulsion, in order to truly maintain a working contact.  There is also a certain amount of straightness needed when working on truly suppling your horse.

    I will go into more detail on the other three steps of the training scale next week.  However, I strong suggest working on your relaxation and rhythm with the end in mind.

    It is also worth noting that, as I mentioned at the beginning, the training scale is not a checklist.  You cannot forget about rhythm as soon as you begin working on suppleness, or even collection.  Each of the steps need the previous steps to be in place and operating correctly in order for that step to be mastered.  Collection cannot happen without rhythm being present.

    And all of the steps have the potential to test the abilities of both you and your horse, even at the most basic levels of your training.  Investing the time and effort in learning to master the basics will see both you and your horse progress correctly later.

    Click here to subscribe

    If you download the free poster of the training scale, I will send you some information on each of the ‘steps’ in more detail.  It is 100% free and you can sign up HERE to access it.

    Happy riding
    Lorna

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  • Working Long and Low

    Working Long and Low

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    So often when we are riding, relaxation for both ourselves and our horse is one of the goals for the ride.  This being so, you may have tried working him long and low. And probably during warming up or cooling off.

    However, you may also have noticed that asking your horse to work long and low can be pretty hit and miss…  He might get faster and faster as he becomes really unbalanced and begins falling onto his forehand…

    What is Long and Low?

    Working your horse long and low involves stretching and elongating his topline, from the tail to the poll.  

    It helps to build his topline, strengthening the ‘suspension’ muscles underneath you and also, create more longitudinal suppleness, which will benefit your horse greatly while being ridden.  So often when riding we think of suppleness as bending and flexing from left to right and while this is true, this is lateral suppleness.

    Working your horse long and low helps with his elasticity and flexibility from tail to poll, along his back, which is essential to his correct development.

    Riding your horse long and low

    Increasing Flexion with Long & Low

    When riding your horse in a long and low frame, you will feel his hindquarters swinging underneath you.  This is due to the muscles in his back becoming more supple and loosening up.  This can only happen when your horse relaxes enough through is back, allowing the energy to flow and connect.

    This results in your horse developing an increased range of flexion and movement in his joints, which will allow for a bigger, more flowing, step or stride. And a more sound horse!

    Your horse should remain balanced, in rhythm and have a consistent forward movement while he is working in the long and low way, whether in walk, trot or canter

    Riding ‘the Rainbow’

    When you are correctly working long and low, think of your horse’s back as being a rainbow. And you’re perched on the top of that rainbow!  And just like with a rainbow where the ‘colour stripes’ begin at one end and follow through right to the other end, your horse’s energy should do the same.

    From the hindquarters, right through the back and to the contact with your hand in front.

    First Forwardness…

    First and foremost, there must be forward energy or impulsion happening in the gait.  This must come from the horse’s hindquarters coming in underneath him and ‘pushing’ off with each step.  It is also vitally important to maintain contact with your horse’s mouth.

    As your horse reaches forward and stretches down, your hands must follow.  Otherwise, you restrict him and may cause him to lean and get on his forehand.  

    Your job is to help keep the impulsion and the contact consistent while the horse is working long and low, all the while being light in the saddle. This is so his back can rise up and almost ‘arch’ underneath you.

    However, often riders do not understand the mechanics behind this frame and this generally results in a few different ‘variations’ of the movement. A lot of these ‘variations’ will result in your horse failing to maintain the balance, rhythm and forwardness that is required.

    Front-Wheel Drive Verus Rear Wheel Drive

    If the hindquarters are not stretching in underneath him, your horse will quite simply be in ‘front-wheel drive’. This is when he is pulling himself along using his shoulders rather than ‘rear wheel drive’; pushing from behind.  Horses that are in front-wheel-drive cannot then elevate their back due to there being no real support behind for the ‘suspension’ to happen.  They also cannot elevate their front end, which must lighten if true connection and suspension are happening.

    Simply put, if there is no forward energy or impulsion coming from the hindquarters to keep pushing that energy through, the ‘rainbow’ that is your horse’s back will cease to exist, making long and low impossible.

    Dropping the Contact

    Another incorrect method of the long and low movement being ridden that is often seen is the rider literally throwing the reins at the horse and hoping this will result in the horse stretching himself.  The rider completely fails to keep contact with their horse’s mouth.

    When asking your horse to transition into a long and low shape, the contact with your horse’s mouth is essential at all times.  Your horse must stretch into and reach for that contact.

    Even though your horse’s head and neck are much lower than where they are usually positioned when working, maintaining a consistent contact is essential if you are to contain the energy that is being created behind.  

    Your horse will reach down and almost stretch into the contact, which will see you lengthening your reins gently, stride by stride, as your horse stretches more and more.  However, your lengthening of the reins must happen in unison with your horse stretching, and most certainly not before!

    Blocking with Your Body

    One of the other, often seen ‘variations’ is the rider leaning forward with their upper body. They somehow think that if they themselves stretch long and low, their horse will follow suit!   Not only will this inevitably unbalance both the rider and the horse, but you are also literally ‘blocking’ your horse’s back from rising up to meet you.

    Remember, part of your horse working in the long and low frame comes from him engaging his tummy muscles to lift himself.  

    You must rather think of your riding position as lightning up with your horse. However, it is more of an up stretch, allowing for your horses back to then come up and meet you there than a forward lean.

    Start when Cooling Down

    I suggest that if you and/or your horse are new to this way of going to rather try after you have finished working your horse and are cooling down.  This way your horse is more inclined to want to stretch his back into the long and low shape and also, you will more likely to be working nicely in a balanced, rhythmic movement.

    While you can ask your horse to work like this in walk, trot and canter, I personally think trot is generally the easiest gait to ask in.

    This is due to the walk often not moving forward enough (with a great potential to get sticky and choppy) and the canter going the opposite way and moving too forward initially!

    When you are asking your horse initially, begin by doing something ‘different’ with how you ride, so your horse can see a difference.  One way of creating this difference is by positioning your hands differently.

    Try keeping your hands wide and lowered, but again, only as your horse reaches down into the contact.

    Maintain Forwardness & Flexion

    Remember to keep the forward energy happening throughout the movement.  Use a circle or bend to help with the flexion and suppleness, which even though more lateral, will help him also loosen up longitudinal as well.  You can begin to encourage this by using your inside rein to ask for some flexion through his poll towards the inside of your circle.

    Only ask for  3 or 4 strides of long and low initially, as your horse will have to develop himself to carry this frame for any length of time.

    Maintain Your Posture

    Keep in mind that you must be sitting up and allowing him to arch his back and bring it up. This is as his hindquarters come underneath him and as he stretches his head and neck down.

    If you are heavy or collapsed in the saddle in any way, you will block this energy resulting in your horse hollowing his back rather than lifting or arching it.

    Stay in rising trot rather than sitting trot.  This is because if you tend to bounce, the sitting trot will cause you to ‘dig’ into his back and encourage him to duck and hollow his back away from you, not lift his back up underneath you

    Maintain Contact

    Focus on keeping an unbroken line from your elbow to your horse’s mouth.  As your horse lowers his head and neck, you too will have to lower your hand to maintain this line.

    However, equally as important to remember not to completely straighten your elbows as this will cause a jarring effect on your horse’s mouth and again, result in him becoming hollow along his back and trying to evade your contact rather than trust it.

    When he has begun to drop his head and neck and stretch down, focus on your position.  Feel his back rising or growing in height underneath you and use this to remind yourself to continue to sit tall in the saddle and stay light.  Focus on balancing your shoulders above your hips, not leaning forwards, backwards or to either side.

    You’ll Know When You Feel It…

    Finally, remember to enjoy the amazing sensation when your horse correctly works long and low.  If you are wondering if you got it right or not, trust me, it is one of those things that once you achieve it, you will definitely feel it :)

    How long it takes your horse to understand what you are asking will really depend on your horse.  Some horses have become so used to leaning on the rider’s hands. Travelling on the forehand like this will take some time for them to build up the trust and strength to work long and low.  Other horses love it and almost naturally transition there after work to ‘stretch out’ their muscles.

    Either way, you must remain consistent through your aids and patient while asking your horse.

    Your horse must first learn to accept your contact before you can begin asking him to work in a long and low frame.  

    From there, it is up you to maintain the impulsion and forward movement that is necessary to maintain the balance and rhythm, that will result in your horse reaching for the contact and truly stretching his topline.

    Happy Riding
    Lorna

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  • Increasing Your Horses Suppleness

    Increasing Your Horses Suppleness

    Have you ever ridden a horse and they feel so wonderfully loose and pliable underneath you?  Perhaps you can remember how your horse was able to really and truly use his body and how the suppleness made it feel like he was performing movements in the best possible way that his body, fitness and confirmation allowed?

    [smart_track_player url=”https://op3.dev/e/traffic.libsyn.com/dailystridespodcast/SFA431-Increasing-Your-Horses-Suppleness.mp3″ title=”Increasing Your Horses Suppleness” social_linkedin=”true” social_pinterest=”true” social_email=”true” tweet_text=”Loosey Goosey… That feeling you get when your horse is warmed up, ‘bendy’ and ready to go… ” hashtag=”Supple #TrainingScale #Equestrian” twitter_username=”strides_success” ]

    True suppleness allows your horse to bend without stiffness and work freely without excess tension or stiffness throughout his back and muscles.   This enables him to perform smoother movements and transitions with greater balance which leads to building strength, development of muscles and growing confidence in both horse and rider.

    Increasing Your Horses Suppleness

    As riders, we are seeking true flexibility or suppleness in our horses, and should always work towards trying to establish, and then allow, elasticity throughout the horse, particularly the jaw, poll, back shoulders, knees, hips and hocks.

    However this is often difficult to understand due to the simple fact that we will not achieve suppleness by ‘fixing’, ‘forcing’ or ‘restricting’ our horses in any way.  Rather than forcing your horse into unnatural frames or positions trying to promote this relaxation and flexibility, think of asking your horse to stretch himself in a natural way, little by little in slight increments, to grow the natural pliability of his muscles and joints.

    Also, when he is flexing or bending, if you are ‘fixing’ him or holding him there, he is not truly supple himself.  When riding , ask your horse for a small about of flexion or bend and then allow him to carry on with the movement himself for a period of strides or seconds.

    As his strength grows, he will become more flexible and his ability to carry himself for longer periods will also increase.

    Suppleness can be thought of in both a forward movement capacity and a sideways or lateral capacity. It is important to ride exercises that boost the development of both. Your horse will not achieve true suppleness if only using his body a certain way. In fact over-development of one will  often result in stiffness in the other.

    Another advantage of working to increase relaxation and suppleness is that it can have a positive effect on your horse mentally and emotionally as well. Often we try to ‘relax’ our horses by speaking to them in a soothing manner, however, if we think about life, feelings follow actions (it is rarely the other way around), so by relaxing the body, we can often dissipate anxiety and stress in the mind and put that energy to better use elsewhere.

    In riding, we are thought to think from the back of the horse to the front of the horse.  Energy created in the hind quarters and then sending it to the front of the horse.  However, we should think of loosening or relaxing our horses the other way around, from front to back.

    There are many horses that are flexible, pliable and supple through their backs and limbs, however they are ‘stuck’ at the poll or jaw which causes that flow of energy to also become stuck or blocked and makes true connection  impossible.

    When working on increasing your horses suppleness, I suggest starting with the poll and jaw.  Place two poles parallel to each other across the center line about 1 meter apart.  In walk, bring your horse between the poles and ask for halt. Try to keep him straight, using the poles for guidance and reference. Then, remembering to keep his neck straight, as him to flex his poll, first one way and then the other.  Use your inside hand and turn your wrist slightly so as the underside is more on top and your thumb is about 45 past the vertical to the outside. Gently squeeze with your ring finger.

    When asking for the movement, keep in mind it is very slight flexion in the poll, not bending though the neck. Ask to the right and then back to center, and then back to the left. You can repeat this quite a few times, all the while noticing any resistance or stiffness. If this shows up, rather invest more time over the coming weeks and months, slowly asking for the flexion and then working it out.

    Don’t force it! Suppleness does not happen overnight, it takes time for your horse to soften, relax and become flexible

    Once you have mastered this in halt and your horse understands, you can begin to incorporate it into walk, trot and eventually, canter.  Use the center line, and if necessary, place some parallel ground poles to work between school to help keep you ‘straight’ and on target for where you want to go.  Remember, you are only flexing your horses poll, not bending the neck.  In walk, ride up the center line and begin asking you horse to flex left then back to straight and then left.

    Pay attention that his shoulders are not ‘swinging’ where you are flexing to which will give your horse the appearance of being slightly inebriated!  Also, focus on keeping him straight through his back, not allowing the hind quarters to fall in or out

    As mentioned, it is important to work all parts of your horses body, so I recommend beginning to incorporating some large circles into your work.  how well your horse can maintain the bend in their body on the circle, will depend on how supple your horse is.  the smaller the circle, the more difficult it will be for your horse, so stick to large circles initially in walk or trot.

    Increasing Your Horses Suppleness

    When riding the circle, Establish and maintain a consistent bend to the inside, all the way from neck to tail. The degree of the bend will depend on the size of the circle as you will follow the arc of the circle.

    Notice if your horse is falling in or out through this shoulders.  Often, when we ask for the horse to bend to the inside, he will begin to literally fall in towards the center of your circle, rather than maintaining the ‘line’ of the circle and his back replicating the arc of the circle.  If this is the case, use your inside leg to encourage him to stay ‘out’ on the circle, however once he is there, he must learn to balance himself so you are not all the time supporting him on the circle or bend.

    There is nothing more exhausting that riding a horse which you have to hold up with your legs

    Again, start your circles in walk and once he understands and has a nice equal bend through his body, go forward to trot and later canter.  Work on both directions and pay attention to any stiffness, tension or lack of balance on one side more than the other.

    If you do notice any problems, see working in it as a long-term project that will be successful if you consistently work little by little at stretching and loosening up your horse

    You can also begin to incorporate some serpentines into your schooling.  Obviously work on your bend while riding the loops, but also focus on your straightness as you cross the center line.  Transition in and out of the two by beginning to ask for some flexion through the poll for 2 to 3 strides before and after the center line.  As you round your ‘loop’ again, straighten the body with just the poll flexed and as you cross the center line, straighten your horse, so you can then change the flexion in order to ride the next loop.  Work the serpentines from both sides, again walk, trot and then canter if necessary.

    You can also incorporate some halts into the serpentine, as you cross the center line, and spend the time in halt flexing the poll again in order to flex the poll and reinforce the principle, in both your head and your horses!

    Finally, you can begin to add some counter bend to your circles.  Ride a large 20 meter circle in walk and once you have established bend to the inside, see if you can ‘change’ the flexion to the outside, paying close attention that the shoulders do not come off the track of the circle.

    The flexion to the outside will be very slight at first, and not held for long periods.   Work on a quarter circle to the outside, then change to a half circle to the inside and then returning to a quarter circle to the outside.  Slowly, your horse will begin to increase his suppleness and flexibility throughout his body and from there, you can begin to make the circle smaller or begin working in trot and, again, later canter

    Suppleness is something that must be continuously and consistently worked on in order to maintain and improve with your horse

    Just like us, if our horses become restricted and only use their body in a certain fixed movement, over time they will lose their ability to bend and be pliable..

    It will take time to build true suppleness, and it will have to become an integral part of your training program to maintain it

    Happy Riding
    Lorna

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